Stelle

Many local Italian restaurants make a claim to offer home-style Italian. Some come close, but Stelle is truly home-style. In fact it may be too homey for those used to the comparatively saucy, rich style of most local Italian eateries. The food is ungarnished, sauces are scant and seasoning is extremely restrained. This doesn’t, however, equate to less flavour. The salads are plain in extremis, but the olive oil is of such good quality that you don’t need a thousand ingredients to help it along.

A selection of both local and Italian wines, plus sparklings and an assortment of mainly Italian liqueurs.

Adequate, but menu knowledge could be improved.

A small and simple dining room is the main eating space, with a secret covered area in a garden at the back.

Blissfully, puddings break from the local Italian restaurant cliché – no bought-in Italian kisses and cassata to be found here. Instead, a host of great traditional pastries (thankfully only moderately sweet) is on offer. (AB, September 2010)

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