Bombay Brasserie

The setting and music might seem slightly incongruous with Indian cuisine, but one look at the menu proves you’re in the right place. Starters can be shared, so nibble your way through a selection that may include fluffy lentil dumplings in yogurt, tender lamb kebabs, or charred, spice-marinated paneer. Recommended mains are the deliciously smoky eggplant mash (perfect scooped up on garlic naan), cottage cheese dumplings in pea curry, and fall-off-the-bone saffron lamb shanks. Though as hearty and flavourful as the dishes may be, one can’t help feeling they don’t quite live up to their exorbitant prices.

The opulently-bound wine list is quite a tome, which includes several champagnes and Cap Classiques, as well as a host of local darlings. Most tipples are available by the glass, but beware of the hefty price tag.

On the ball and knowledgeable, but lacking in charisma.

Set in the old bank building, the brasserie’s gleaming parquet floors are offset against ornate Venetian mirrors and blue glass chandeliers.

A palate cleanser of mango sorbet arrives in a bowl containing dry ice, making for quite a show-stopping interlude. (AK, October 2011)

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