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Asian tapas at Greedy Buddha in Durban

Don’t underestimate Greedy Buddha: eating here is serious business. The deceptively casual restaurant serves South East Asian tapas: iconic dishes are drawn from various countries and prepared authentically – the flour used in dim sum is imported from China – and they’re balanced with specials that flourish under creative licence. Attention to detail is mandatory, from the waiter who painstakingly explains dishes, to the striking presentation of food and even the provision of two different homemade flavoured soya sauces for dipping.

Food

Pot stickers (like lamb, chilli and coriander) juxtapose a soft, sticky top with crispy bottom; the waiter suggested biting into them and sucking out the delicious liquid. Generous pork steamed buns are endearingly described as ‘Chinese bunny chow’ and, despite their anaemic appearance, deliver a riot of flavours. The roast pork version was nearly upstaged by the delicious caramel chilli jam that accompanied it. Inspired by Peking duck, the Ducking Fantastic is just that and offers gently cooked duck wrapped in a pancake with the traditional spring onion, cucumber and plum sauce.

More substantial dishes include slices of unctuous pork belly adorned with a satisfying sliver of crunchy crackling and served on braised red cabbage; and the specials menu, which is inspired by rather than dictated to by authenticity, deserves attention. Think Szechuan garlic and chilli halloumi with candied cashews or Asian seared beef nigiri layered with ginger, avo, wasabi and horseradish and daintily topped with sweet potato crisps and pea shoots. Desserts are limited but interesting with the likes of a lemongrass vanilla panna cotta served with green tea jasmine sherbet. Menu items range from R27 to R49 and offer great value for money. The head chef is Nardia Daniels (pictured).

Wine

There is no wine list available but you can take your own and pay corkage; or order wine from the restaurant next door (which is conveniently added to your bill).

Ambience

The premises doesn’t allow for an indoor dining area as the compact space has been dedicated to the kitchen, but it’s hardly a necessity in Durban. White, undressed tables – apart from the lazy Susans that allow for convenient communal eating – dominate a covered veranda and a bright green wall featuring a mural of a cheerful Buddha, which is the only décor element, even if it is by necessity rather than design.

Service

Exceptional service was somewhat unexpected given the laid-back feel of the restaurant. The seldom-achieved balance of friendliness and professionalism was easily attained; staff are forthcoming with recommendations and are knowledgeable on preparation, ingredients and even on how best to eat various dishes.

And…

The Greedy Buddha’s take-away menu should be operational by September 2013 and the brand will expand once suitable premises are found.

By Tracy Gielink

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