Yes, it’s a patisserie, a bar and a gourmet restaurant. Bolton Road Collection’s doors have just cracked open, but already it’s got the attention of in-the-know eaters and Pinterest.
Just down the road from Thrupps Corner, this area is soon to be Elephant Corner thanks to the commissioning of mural work from graffiti artist Sonny. The owners want to draw attention to these great animals to remind us that they’re as important as rhinos.
And that’s not where the artistic flair ends – the ‘collection’ part of the name hints at the restaurant’s own art, which is impressive. The glass-fronted restaurant is opposite the Goodman Gallery and on the Jan Smuts art route, just a hop-skip away from the new Keyes Art Mile.
The scent of tantalising baking leaks out of the kitchen and into the restaurant, resulting in croissants that are the real, chef-produced, buttery deal. The coffee is Origin’s best and if you thought red-velvet cakes were becoming a yawn, Bolton’s version will change your mind: a giant airy treat, it’s decadent and hard to ignore.
The breakfast to choose, from many interesting ones, is the whipped granola – with yoghurt, maple syrup, an icy milk sorbet and full of berries (R3 from this dish and the tonka-bean panna cotta go to Hearts of Hope). Apparently the cocktail to try is the Potted Plant, which comes with chocolate ice.
So far the pride of Bolton Road’s well-pedigreed executive chef (formerly from Nobu) Andrew Green is the roasted sea bass. It’s served with cauliflower purée, coconut, charred baby gems, and a light and fragrant garam masala sauce. There’s also a fascinating shared dish selection. Everything here is seriously and assiduously sourced or made from scratch.
This is a mighty encouraging start to the promising gourmet place on Elephant Corner.