From bokkoms to crayfish and fish ‘n chips takeaways to chef’s tables, the unassuming West Coast town of Paternoster will keep most foodies delighted over a weekend break.

The real question facing a weekend visitor to Paternoster is “where to start?”

This is the place for the freshest offerings the ocean can provide: there’s Saldanha oysters aplenty, fat mussels, snoek and of course, crayfish. Lots and lots of crayfish – it’s even sold by the side of the road! But if you’re not into doing a little basting and braaiing and want others to cook for you, there are many places that fit the bill very nicely.

The latest kid on the culinary block is ex-Johannesburg chef Suzi Holtzhausen who’s brought quite a few dining options to this idyllic little town. By day she runs Oep ve Koep – the tea garden behind Die Winkel op Paternoster. In a relaxed and eclectic garden setting, you can be coddled with comfort food like boiled eggs with soldiers, toast with sweetcorn and cheese, baked beans or sardines. Or for something sweeter, there’s delish scones and crumpets too.

Lunchtimes gear up a notch, with modern pastas or a curry filling the gap very well. And before you leave, stock up on the shop’s fantastic preserved fruits, jams, mustards and relishes. By night Suzi runs her Salt Coast establishment, Gaaitjie. It not only provides accommodation, but you can also enjoy chef’s tables, cooking courses and tasting evenings under her culinary guidance.

Another shining light on the restaurant scene is relative newcomer The Noisy Oyster. With a magical garden setting, complete with candles, fairy lights and a fountain, this is the place to indulge in fabulous seafood – think oysters, mussels, prawns and crayfish – each done in a way that suits the produce best. Oysters are raw and served with a splash of lemon and tobasco; steaming mussels are sauced with white wine and garlic; prawns are given a light touch with garlic, olive oil and lemon juice, while the pièce de résistance crayfish comes with the best potato wedges and a robust aïoli to add zing.

Luckily fish isn’t the only forté here. Pizzas are thin-based and moreish, with salami and peppadew or anchovies, capers and shallots. And if you simply can’t face another fishy meal – try the manly beef burger or sirloin steak. The service here is also some of the best in a town where the concept of “fast” food (fortunately) does not exist. So sit back, drink another glass of wine, and allow yourself to wind down.

Paternoster is a barefoot kind of place, and the best way to experience that is grabbing a freshly-fried piece of fish (snoek and hake are great) and of course a serious portion of “slap” chips from Seemeeu, the harbourside takeaway, and go to the beach and eat it all with your fingers. Utterly delicious!

For some great self-catering accommodation, phone Paternoster Seaside Cottages (073 844 77 22) – they’ll find you the perfect spot for your weekend. Visit their website at www.seasidecottage.co.za

By Lisa van Aswegen
Images: Shaun O’Meara