Tableview might boast one of the most iconic Cape Town vistas, but until now, it had precious little to offer pilgrims on the food front. A new restaurant opened up by Matt Schreuder is promising something a little bit special. Matt, who grew up working in his father Dale’s restaurants (locals will remember Dale’s Place, and currently Dale’s Black Angus and Driftwood Café), comes fresh from Europe where he managed a Michelin-starred pop-up space and worked in a trendy cocktail bar in the grungy end of Zurich. Here’s why city slickers are making the trip to Tableview to eat at Homespun.
Diners are greeted by a concise menu that fits onto one page: there are five starters, six mains and just three desserts – which always bodes well, in my book. The braised belly of pork with apple purée, roasted butternut and crumbed feta is a fantastic starter – a sweet, tangy purée and beautifully savoury pork. The beef tataki is also good: the beef comes in satisfying cubes coated in crispy panko crumbs and is plated beautifully on caramelised white onion purée and pickled ginger.
The pulled lamb – a novel idea – is gloriously fragrant and juicy, with a strong lamby flavour. The line fish with a beautiful garlic and sweet basil cream also comes with a tasty baby marrow risotto, which feels like a bonus prize.
For dessert, the vanilla and honey cheesecake is the winner. The deep-fried nougat is less of a success, probably because my expectation is that the nougat would melt. As it is, it just goes a little chewy (not soft), but is tasty nonetheless in crispy filo pastry, and the cinnamon ice cream served alongside is spot on.
Young head chef Ryan Mollentze might be only 24 years old, but he’s cooking delicious food. (Capetonians may recognize something in the style of foreshore bistro Thornton Whites, where Mollentze cut his teeth).
The restaurant is still awaiting its liquor licence, which can be a long process, so bring your own. In the plans are craft cocktails – made with fresh ingredients – no syrups or synthetic ingredients – and wine, beer and cocktail pairings.
Warm without being overbearing. Food comes out smartly.
A mix of rustic wooden furniture – couch-style banquettes rest on wooden pallets, bar-height tables are made from repurposed wooden spindles – and classy touches like candelabras and gilt-edged mirrors make this a comfortable but slightly special place to eat. A light fitting made from copper pipes is a nod to steampunk on one wall.
All in all, it’s delicious bistro food with some clever angles, and would give some of the more established central Mother City bistros a run for their money.