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Review: The new and improved Bombay Brasserie

Newly renovated in mid-2019, Bombay Brasserie has been opened up, lightened up and linked to the magnificent bar, where diners can enjoy a coriander or mango lassie over chaat (meaning tasty or delicacy in Hindu) – small plates of savoury snacks originating from street food stalls in India. For a more informal dining experience, sit at one of the casual bistro tables scattered around the bar area.

 

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Executive chef David Tilly has worked in the kitchens of Taj Hotels all over the world – and here weaves together Indian and Cape Malay cuisine to create a uniquely authentic masala melting pot of regional Indian flavours in sophisticated combinations. Fashioned on London’s iconic restaurant of the same name, the brasserie has a sumptuous metropolitan feel with a multicultural menu to match.

Fast facts

Food type: Indian fine dining
Cost: Average main meal R195, set menus from R425
Parking: Valet parking
Star ratings: Food and drinks: 4; Service: 4; Ambience: 5

Food

The best way around the menu for novices might be to opt for one of the set vegetarian or non-vegetarian standard or decadent menus, which offers samples of a range of signature dishes, from delicious ostrich and raisin samoosas to melt-in-your-mouth semolina-and-potato sphere chaat. Mix and match smoky, charcoal grilled starters from the tandoor like homemade paneer, chicken tikka, mustard seed marinated broccoli florets, simmered with a spicy kaleidoscope of anise, cardamom, cumin, curry leaf, tamarind, saffron, fenugreek, ginger and mint.

 

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The dishes are superbly presented and sauced in small copper pots, colourful and richly fragrant, that are easy to share at the table. There’s a wide range of dishes for vegetarians: from a creamy vegetable kofta curry and baingan bharta (clay oven smoked aubergine) to fabulous gobi matar (cauliflower and pea curry). Keep an eye out for the smoky Kerala-style prawn (or kingklip) curry enhanced with a spiced coconut and green mango sauce – or the succulent masala tikka Karoo lamb chop. Don’t forget to order sides of flaky paratha or fenugreek butter naan bread from the tandoor – as well as sublime dhal makani.

 

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For sweet treats to offset the spice extravaganza, cleanse your palate with the sublime nougat cardamom kulfi, homemade mango and coconut sorbet, which will take your tastebuds travelling all the way from the Cape to India and back. Desserts are artily plated with spun sugar spirals and cascading dry ice.

Drinks

There’s a comprehensive wine, beer, cocktail and spirits list that will suit every pocket.

Service

Slick, attentive and sophisticated – from the sommelier to the servers.

 

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Ambience

Opulent and exotic, from the peacock mosaics, handwoven fabrics and chandeliers to the gleaming Aladdin brass lamps, murals and plush wood panels.

 

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Best for…

A big night out on the town for a special occasion.

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Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here

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