Food
Despite sticking to the faithful stalwarts of saucy steaks and liver and onions that define Jakes, the restaurant has moved to satisfy devotees of TV food channels and introduced more exotic fare. Thai green curries jostle with Moroccan chilli flatbreads, but it all seems to come together to satisfy the families that consistently throng to this suburban magnet.

Wine
The winelist complements the food and the atmosphere. It’s well represented and there are no surprises, all at reasonable prices.

Service
Jakes knows its customers, and the service is easy and attentive without being obtrusive or fussy.

Ambience
The décor is postmodern suburban, dimly lit at night, and has a reassuring familiarity.

And...
If you’re battling to satisfy everyone’s tastes, default to Jakes. (LW)