Food
Consistently rated among the world’s best (and Eat Out’s 2007 top restaurant), expect nothing ordinary about executive chef Margot Janse’s cuisine, designed by to titillate. There’s a delightful sense of humour at play in this sensory journey, whether you opt for the four-, six- or eight-course menu of vividly plated ‘tastes’ which might change from one day to the next. Flavours are adventurous, dallying with seasonal local produce and luxe ingredients like foie gras and the more extravagant shellfish. Game features prominently, while desserts are inspired (though sometimes prettier to look at than eat). Do go with a receptive palate, not to mention stamina if you’re doing eight courses with wine, and you’ll be deliciously rewarded, though strict vegetarians and the overly safe are best left at home.

Wine
A vast and carefully chosen selection includs a listing of wines currently maturing in the cellar. Do opt for the ‘flight’ of specially paired wines to accompany your various dishes.

Service
It’s smartly presented, professional and very friendly, though the waiters sometimes get flustered explaining or remembering complicated dishes.

Ambience
Freshly spruced up, this classically elegant space now sports reupholstered chairs in edible fuchsia, crimson and tangerine, with walls showing off bright new contemporary paintings. Gone is the piano while, outside, a flock of beaded sheep nibble the grass. A lighter, fun attitude to match the playful food!

And...
With its international stature continuing to rise, you’ll need to book your table weeks in advance. (LR)