Food:

It was Coco Chanel who said the secret to elegance is to look in the mirror and remove one accessory before leaving the house. David Higgs seems to have taken this to heart in his approach to food. There are no unnecessary swirls, fiddly foams or gels just for the sake of having gels. Instead, dishes are balanced perfectly. Yes, there are experimentations with textures and techniques, but every ingredient adds an extra dimension to the dish. And it tastes brilliant. Beautifully poached crayfish is sliced paper thin and dressed with pancetta wafers. A knock-out. A cheekier side is shown by an interpretation of a BP pie: braised short ribs, powerful Witzenberger cheese and a zingy apple salad. Game is championed throughout the menu too, and a dish of pan-fried Springbok loin (dusted with cocoa nibs and coffee), braised oxtail, and Jerusalem artichokes will live long in the memory of anyone lucky enough to try it.

Wine:

Neil Grant could well be the best sommelier in the country. He offers up hugely interesting advice on wine pairings to best match the dishes, and does it all in an approachable way. If you don’t feel like going for the paired wines, he’s the guy to ask about choosing from the seriously impressive list.

Service:

Flawless. The benchmark that any restaurant in this country should measure itself against. The experience begins when you leave your car and are walked to the front door. Throughout the meal it just gets better, as the articulate, young staff takes you through each dish. Seriously, this is another-league stuff.

Ambience:

Pure elegance, without being stuffy. A nice mix of old-meets-new has been achieved, in the form of a beautifully renovated barn. Seamless glass doors invite you outside to enjoy a pre-drink glass of champagne. Oversized lights provide an intimate mood, and there are bold hits of warmth in the form of red walls, with more delicate touches provided by white orchids. Photos of the owner, the chef and family and friends hang on walls to add a personal feel. The team is on display behind an open-plan kitchen and watching food of this quality being prepared is always entertaining.

And...:

This year sees the departure of David Higgs, as he heads North for a new challenge. It will be interesting to see if his ridiculously high standards will be maintained. One thing is for sure, though: Stellenbosch’s loss is Joburg’s gain. (AF, October 2011)

Sara Barlow
1-Feb-2012

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Maurice van Heerden
25-Jan-2012

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Annandale Road, Rust en Vrede Estate, Stellenbosch

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