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Kloof Street House

Friday, September 15th, 2017

Reviewed by Andre Schulman

It’s hugely successful. We arrived at 18h30 on a Monday and the place was full, with more diners due at 20h30. There were hosts of staff of all the peoples and genders of S. Africa, ready to greet you at the entrance, and all of them young and fashionable. The wage bill must be huge. The clientele was also young, many under 25. Showbiz! I had butter chicken curry – pink-orange, slightly thickened sauce, faintly spicy, in a bowl with pieces of meat, some of it difficult to identify as chicken, swimming in it. It was the second worst ‘cooking’ I have ever eaten. This wasn’t just a lapse in standards. This was just cynical. The service, by our young black waitress, was really good, attentive, egalitarian, informal, making us feel at home. This is the second fashionably successful place I have visited in Cape Town, serving up ridiculous food, and popular with the young (who don’t know their e’s from their a’s). What Cape Town urgently needs is a Restaurant Guide of conscientious standards in unpretentious prose. Where on earth these days can one get decent South African, Cape Malay-influenced, cooking? Nowhere!
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