It does exactly what it says on the label: bacon. In a million different ways. Well, okay, only around twenty, but still, plenty. The one page menu is an ode to (arguably?) the best thing to do with pork – covering breakfast, sandwiches, salads and light bites. The options are plentiful, but we advice you to stick to the simple ones. The ones where the bacon gets all the attention. Point in case is the Anti Hero – a simple bacon butty, made from the house sourdough (shaped like a government loaf!) and plenty of crispy bacon and ketchup.
Or the Smokey Joe, another sourdough winner with bacon, cheese and a dusting of homemade smoked paprika. Frankly excellent for anytime of day – with or without a hangover. There is of course also the basic Bowl of Bacon, which is just that: a bowl of heavenly, crispy bacon. If you insist on going for something a bit more complicated, options include the magical-sounding Unicorn burger (made with a pork patty with chorizo spices, and served with leaves, tomato and fried onion). On paper it looks like a good idea, but in practice it is a bit too much (very rich and spicy). You will struggle to eat the whole thing. Other options include a charcuterie board to share (with a selection of cured meats, pate, labneh, caponata and melba toast), All About Eve (sparerib coated in an overly tomatoey BBQ sauce with yummy fried onion rings but an uninspiring slaw) and the rather disappointing Miami Vice. These bacon and duck cheese croquettes are too cheesy and not 'bacony' enough. Desserts are uncomplicated and yummy: gelato, sorbet, affogato or cake.
The drinks menu caters for the fact that a bacon craving can strike anytime of the day. The excellent coffee is by Kamili, there are a handful of wines and craft beers, and there are a few raw pressed juices and some cocktails. Look out for the Bacon Mary cocktail – a Bloody Mary with bacon-infused vodka.
The service is perfect for a popular weekday lunch spot. Swift and friendly.
The space is modern and clean, and in line with its hip Bree Street location. In summer, enjoy a pavement table in the sun, and in winter cosy up to counter to watch the rain and passing crowds. Be sure not to miss the fridge packed with owner Richard Bosman’s prized charcuterie and bacon.
The downstairs room has a revolving showcase of interesting local art. Worth a look.
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