Critic's review

Lynda Ingham-Brown

Food
The menu, as expected, focuses on grills, with grass-fed beef sourced from Greenfields in KZN, and grain-fed from Chalmar in Gauteng. Starters include the likes of roast marrow bones served with ciabatta and battered onion rings; carpaccio with wild rocket, Parmesan and herb dressing; jalapeño poppers filled with mozzarella, Cheddar and sour cream; and ‘Ferrari’ toast – jamon, mature Cheddar and truffle oil.

Mains comprise a comprehensive steak offering – including sirloin, rib-eye, rump and fillet, with two options on the bone (T-bone and sirloin) – as well as pork ribs, all served with a choice of baked potato or French fries. (Optional extra sides include chargrilled broccoli, roasted butternut, creamed spinach and grilled BBQ mushrooms.) There are also various sauces and butters, including a truffle mushroom sauce, café de Paris butter, and blue-cheese sauce. The pork ribs are pleasantly saucy without being too slippery to eat, while the T-bone is a little thinly cut, making it difficult to achieve good chargrilled flavour.

House specialities include ostrich steak with a citrus reduction, Karoo loin chops, chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce, and a pepper-encrusted flambéed fillet. There are also some seafood dishes for those who prefer a lighter option, including grilled linefish (kingklip, on the day we visited), steamed mussels in white wine and garlic, grilled calamari, and grilled prawns with garlic or peri-peri. There’s a vegan burger for those who don’t eat meat, and a few lighter options such as peri-peri chicken livers, a steak roll with balsamic caramelised onions, a beef kebab with café de Paris butter, and a chicken or beef burger.

Desserts include the usual suspects: a crème brûlée with the requisite crack of scorched sugar, albeit a little cold in the centre, as well as oven-baked cheesecake with a berry coulis, yoghurt panna cotta, a chocolate bread-and-butter pudding and a trio of vegan ice creams.

Drinks
A comprehensive though slightly pricey wine list covers red, white and sparkling varieties, with one or two per varietal available by the glass. Most are locally sourced, with a few international sparkling options on offer. There are also magnums for those wanting to splash out, as well as beer (some on tap), spirits and soft drinks.

Service
Service is friendly and professional, with a warm welcome. Knowledgeable, attentive staff offer good advice.

Ambience
This is an upmarket space aimed at a mature clientele. It’s decorated with leather and wood, with photographs of times gone by and books lining the walls. There’s a fireplace that adds warmth in winter, as well as a stylish bar area for those wanting to linger or just pop in for a drink.

Best for…
A meaty meal with family or friends.

• Ambience

  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

• Service

  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

• Food

  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★