Try the beetroot-cured salmon with horseradish apple slaw, a delicious mélange of savoury and sweet, or the Caesar salad with anchovy toast and quail eggs, nice and rich, but just the right size for a starter. Don’t miss the selection of palate-cleansing sorbets, including tomato granita with a drop of vodka, or rose, with a sugared rose petal. The hazelnut-crusted scallops are fat and juicy, and served on a bed of wilted baby fennel, while the grilled beef fillet with herb mash and spinach purée, and anointed with a rich Port jus, is just the thing for a carnivore. Finish with liquorice macaroons with tangerine jelly or coconut panna cotta with lime sorbet and passion fruit coulis, two imaginative, knockout puds.
A vast list, but a bit on the pricey side, chosen with great care to complement the cuisine by someone who knows what he is doing. Many SA iconic treasures with a small international presence.
Slick and smooth as befits a hotel of this calibre; unobtrusive and friendly.
The room has vast black bevelled mirrors that cover one wall and is a clever combination of coolly modern and comfortably pleasant, with just the right number of crystal chandeliers to up the ante. The restaurant is named after one of Queen Victoria’s most loved pooches.
Arrive early and set the mood with a cocktail or two at the elegant bar.(GL,June 2011)