Venues

SCHOON

SCHOON
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Cost
R80 avg main meal
Ambience
Groups, Kids, Quick meals
Food
Bakery fare, Café fare, Deli fare
Payment
Mastercard, Visa
Corkage
None

Critic's review

Jeanne Calitz

Food
Seeing as this is primarily a bakery, the menu lends itself towards breakfast. Depending on your tastes, you may wish to sample the bone marrow on dark rye with blue-cheese cream and confit onions. Or perhaps you prefer your breakfast to be desert-adjacent? If so, try the mosbolletjie French toast with banana, cinnamon tahini and clotted cream. Go for the smoked salmon on rye with ginger-and-coriander ricotta, toasted chickpeas and mielies. Served with a scrumptious Hollandaise sauce – and, upon request, a softly poached egg – it’s perfectly proportioned. It’s also the best breakfast I’ve had all year.

If you like your brekkie reasurringly familiar, order the soft scrambled egg on sourdough, with salmon or bacon, and slow-roasted tomatoes. Note that the bread menu alone is worth taking your time over. There are, for example, unique breads baked only on certain days of the week, like ‘corn porridge bread’ on Fridays, and mosbolletjie bread on Sundays.

Or, if bread is not your thing, consider the za’atar-spiced bircher muesli with sour figs and honey, or the mielie pap with truffles and grana padano. It would be difficult to go wrong here.

Drinks
Schoon’s team pour a neat flat white, served in beautiful custom-made ceramic crockery. Also recommended is the fresh green juice with apple, lemon and mint – a tonic for the brain and the body. The hot chocolate is served as a smear of dark chocolate ganache, with steamed milk, and there is an item called ‘salted caramel malt pot’ that sounds like the ultimate cold weather comfort.

Service
Friendly and efficient. Several customers are greeted by name, which is always a good sign of an eatery’s local footprint.

Ambience
The café forms part of a building that also houses an estate agent and a wellness studio. It’s certainly not an obvious choice of location for a bakery, but searching for it is worth the effort. There’s some nice outdoor seating on the stoep, with a counter and high chairs overlooking the street. Inside, the feeling is industrial (untreated walls; steel-backed chairs) yet not cold, thanks to hints of leather, a fire burning in the hearth, and the friendly hiss of the coffee machine. Immediately upon entering is a wide, green-tiled sink with a copper tap and stylish glasses for guests to help themselves to water – a welcome touch.

And…
Do stock up on some pastries before you leave. The pasteis de nata is among the best I’ve ever had. Also wonderful is the seasonal friand with fresh berries. The coconut quidim (a custard tart) is beautifully fragrant, yet not too heavy or sweet. The kouignan is Schoon’s take on the French kouign-amann, which tastes like a happy hybrid of a muffin, croissant and cinnamon bun, and is an airy delight.

(September 2017)

Eat Out reviewers dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. Click here to read our editorial policy.

  • Ambience
  • Service
  • Food

Facilities

  • Accepts credit cards
  • Breakfast
  • Eat Out reviewed
  • Lunch

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