Wednesday, July 17th, 2013

Reviewed by Kate Wilson

Casparus has all the old favourites that Etienne Bonthuys does best: the warm oysters, the incredible, reduced sauces, the great cuts of meat and combinations of red meat and seafood. When he first combined things like quail and salmon it was relatively adventurous and this has remained his signature: that Belgian style of surf and turf. He still does the same things well, though the menu has not evolved much, and he seems to have found a niche in Stellenbosch. The interiors and little garden at the restaurant are quite special. Etienne is an institution and deserves credit for what he does best. Order the warm oysters with cap classique butter sauce, fillet with bone marrow and red wine sauce, and the lamb with lobster sauce.
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