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Reviews

Foxcroft

Friday, November 15th, 2019

Reviewed by Richard Holmes

Food
Chef-proprietor Glen Foxcroft Williams brings a welcome informality to the realm of fine dining, from the minimalist table décor to the simple wood-backed menus. And there’s little pretence on the plates, where instead you’ll find a fusion of careful technique and bold flavours in perfect balance. It’s impossible to pigeonhole Foxcroft into a style of cuisine, with flavours ranging from spicy salsa matcha to kimchi served atop, of all things, Brussels sprouts. That makes each plate a surprise, whether you’ve signed up for the smaller four-course menu or eight-course degustation. Portions are generous, so go easy on the
delicious bread course, a crispy focaccia folded with olive tapenade.

The yellowfin tuna is a standout of the first tapas plates: perfect medallions of dark meat atop a smoky salsa matcha, neatly balanced by avocado mousse and pickled radish. There’s little fault in the braised beef shin with polenta and a burnt rosemary velouté, or the tandoori turnips, but the bowl of West Coast mussels is a must-order. Plump mussels swim in creamy chowder that seems a touch sweet at first, until the piquant pickled calamari takes the edge off. Again, balance.

There’s more balance in the main courses, where rich confit pork belly comes balanced by kimchi and salty pork jus. Williams takes sustainability seriously, and the line fish of
black bream is an equally fine dance partner to fennel, chorizo and smoked tomato.

A pastry chef in previous kitchens, it’s no surprise Williams is a dab hand at desserts. A standout is the poached pear with bostock, rooibos jelly and crème fraîche. You won’t find a more elegant interpretation of this classic.

Drinks
Compact but carefully curated. You’ll find signature and chef-collaborated cocktails that tap into local craft spirits. The wine list shows equal care, with a handful of boutique estates per varietal. There’s about a half-dozen available by the glass.

Service
Brisk and efficient, but with no shortage of hospitality. Excellent knowledge of the menu and the composition of each plate.

Ambience
With its screed floors, industrial-chic ceiling and minimalist décor, this sleek urban space feels happily out of place in suburban Constantia. The long pass dominates one side of
the restaurant, allowing a glimpse into the kitchens, while prime window tables overlook seats on the shady terrace.

Best for…
Business lunches to impress, date-night dinners.

(October 2019)

Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here

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