Granita @ Kievits Kroon

Thursday, December 22nd, 2016

Reviewed by Hennie Fisher

The first course of their prix fixe menu consists of roasted baby beetroot with tiny blue cheese and mascarpone quenelles, hazelnut powder and mustard dressing, served on a massive white plate for impact. A seared langoustine tail tops a lovely duck confit ravioli on very tasty wilted spinach, surrounded by a langoustine bisque with a dash of sherry. A soup of tiny cubes of perfectly-cooked chicken resembles the heads of tiny wild mushrooms in the mushroom and chicken soup, further enriched by a poached quail egg.

As its name suggests, Granita always serves a granita palate cleanser, which can be followed by mains of slices of roast rump of lamb with a thin layer of crispy fat, beetroot chips, stewed parsnips, and artichoke purée. The dessert, a trio of apples, consists of a delicious apple panna cotta, apple sorbet and a tiny whole apple with butterscotch sauce.

The wine list is smart and well-designed, showing care and attention.

Achilles Bobo, the restaurant manager/sommelier, is engaging and fun but also thoroughly professional. The service is efficient and crisp, and the chef himself will come out to inform patrons that the kitchen might be running a little behind but not to fret about your order.

Kievits Kroon is a large estate with a larger, commercial dining room also on the property, but Granita has to be one of the most intimate and elegant dining rooms in Pretoria. Simply decorated with just a few local artists’ works gracing the walls, this establishment is about the food and the experience, which is clear from the moment you arrive past the massive arrangement of luxurious fresh flowers in the main foyer.

Davies Moagi is the chef at the helm of Granita at the moment – he is young, talented and speaks eloquently and with passion about his cooking style and career. In summer ask to sit on the veranda just outside the French doors of the restaurant, and in winter book a table close to the fireplace for a special treat.

(September 2016)

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