Sunday, November 20th, 2016

Reviewed by Nikita Buxton

The modern Japanese cuisine at Nobu is not just about sushi. The menu plays with textures and flavours with an overwhelming range of innovative dishes from which to choose. The menu is not for novices: it’s split into comprehensive sections of cold and warm, light and rich, old- and new-style, with an added chef’s choice tasting menu.

Kick off with the moreish aracini-style crispy rice cubes served with hot-buttered soy, a plate of fresh and zingy new-style sashimi with a vibrant green jalapeño dressing, or delicate tacos filled with the softest salmon.

If you’re feeling flush, you can move onto the signature black-lacquered cod den miso or Wagyu beef, or you can try the kingklip amazu ponzu for a perfectly cooked, sweet, sour and citrusy dish. There’s also tempura, teriyaki, kushiyaki or toban yaki dishes from which to choose, with plenty of vegetarian options. A bento box with a selection of dishes, including a miso soup and dessert, will save those who are unsure. As a side, the simple-sounding spinach salad is a revelation and shouldn’t be missed: a plate of abundant fresh baby spinach leaves is tossed with umami-rich combinations of dried miso, lemon juice, a hint of truffle and parmesan.

Don’t leave without spooning into a decadent chocolate fondant, served in a bento box with refreshing green-tea ice cream, or the delicate Suntory whisky cappuccino with milk ice cream and coffee brûlée.

The wine list is superb. Split into varietals, it contains some wonderful local and international choices – but be prepared to pay. There’s also an impressive spirits list with a good selection of Japanese beer, sake and whisky.

Friendly, but can be a touch elusive.

This is not your standard sushi joint. The One&Only hotel is dripping in grandeur. The restaurant, with its grand high ceilings and contemporary décor, makes for a special night out.

For early-evening bites, the upstairs lounge offers finger-food platters and glorious signature cocktails.

(September 2016)

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