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The Stack

Tuesday, August 29th, 2017

Reviewed by Ashraf Booley

Food
The à la carte menu offers a range of consistently delicious and exquisite bistro-style fare. Slurp up a bowl of authentic French onion soup for starters. It has silky smooth, caramelised onions swimming in a rich, flavourful beef broth, gratinéed with gruyère cheese croutons.

The confit duck rillettes are a delight, served with gem lettuce, tart and tangy pickled veg, and cherry jam for sweetness. If seafood is more your thing, try the rock oysters or salmon gravadlax instead.

A brasseire classic is the steak frites (French for steak and fries), featuring 300g of lovingly tended to and perfectly cooked sirloin. The crispy and delicious pommes frites are in a league of their own, with accompanying béarnaise (oh, the béarnaise!) delivering a rich, smooth and creamy texture that takes the steak to new heights.

Another classic is duck à l'orange, which is served pull-apart tender and tasty, with baby carrots and braised shallots. If the hunger pangs have got the better of you, however, the Karoo lamb rump may be your answer. It comes complete with wild mushrooms, veal sweetbreads and celeriac purée, which is silky in texture and deliciously subtle in flavour.

To see what’s on offer for the day, investigate the plats du jour menu, with options ranging from pork schnitzel on Mondays to moules marinières (mussels) on Fridays.

Dive into the classic crème brûlée for a sweet ending, where you’ll find velvety, vanilla-flavoured custard beneath the burnt caramelised bits. It’s served with macerated berries and a subtle hint of black pepper.

Drinks
The small but stellar selection of wines has been carefully chosen with the menu in mind. Start or end off with a cocktail in the beautiful bar.

Service
Excellent all-round. Staff are professional, helpful and knowledgeable about the dishes and drinks.

Ambience
Compared to the riot of colour in the bar and private members’ club, the brasserie favours a more neutral palette, contrasted with splashes of colour. It’s sophisticated, stylish and eclectic at once – perfect for a fancy date night or dinner with the in-laws if you’re looking to impress.

And…
For the privileged few, the private members’ club allows access to the private bar, lounge and outdoor verandah, including a screening room, huddle room and cuddle room.

(June 2017)

Eat Out critics dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. Read our editorial policy here.

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