Wednesday, February 6th, 2019
Reviewed by Zanele Kumalo
When at a steakhouse, follow the lead of the four brothers who opened the first restaurant in 1977, and order a cut of fillet, rump, entrecote, t-bone or sirloin, or head straight for the marrow bones, which are cooked in their broth or bathed in red wine, tomato, mushroom and garlic.
The menu is a wealth of well-sourced, tender and beautifully cut beef, lamb, boerewors, oxtail and more, made almost any way you like (grilled, basted, coated in pepper or chilli, potjies, ribs) and accompanied with fancier chimichurris, snail sauces or more familiar cheese, mushroom, green pepper or monkey gland pairings, as well as with red wine recommendations.
There are plenty of options even if red meat doesn’t delight. Soups like the tomato-based option with mussels, prawns and calamari; creamy butternut; and tomato with white wine are tasty. The snails in a brandy and garlic butter sauce are really delicious teasers (a highlight), and the kingklip fillet with lemon butter sauce flakes beautifully for tasty forkfuls. For the vegetarians, there is an aubergine stack and a curried coconut potjie.
Italian kisses, crème brûlée and baked cheesecakes end off.
The wine menu is extensive, favours reds and leans towards being pricey. Touches like Aperol spritzes which are becoming more popular in Joburg keep the fare interesting.
It’s a very comfortable and largely traditional dining experience.
Waiters are seasoned.
A business meeting or catch up with the folks.
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