This Kenilworth institution remains thoroughly popular with the locals. It hasn’t changed much since it opened, over 20 years ago, which is either reassuring or alarming, depending on your sensibilities.
Borruso’s built their brand on pizza and pasta, and that’s where the focus of the menu still lies.
The pizzas have a legion of fans. They’re thin-based, chewy, and pretty good, though the selection of toppings has not changed overmuch in a decade. Think peppadews™, bacon and feta (the Porcopeppa); or smoked chicken, sundried tomatoes and mushrooms (the pollodoro). Else keep things classic with a quattro stagioni or a Del Cuoco with salami and olives. There are decent banting bases, and gluten-free bases, too.
The meat cannelloni is unfortunately a little disappointing. It has a rather too tangy sauce, which is jarring.
For dessert – if you’ve somehow got space – the ice cream and hot chocolate sauce is a good bet. The cheesecake is unfortunately stale, and served on a damp wooden board – which always adds a faint odour of dog to the proceedings.
Wines are of the affordable category: from Two Oceans or Nederburg Baronne. The generous free corkage on one bottle per couple however means that bringing your own is an easy and cheap option.
Friendly, but the level of professionalism among the young staff varies. Towards the end of the evening, you may have to interrupt a chat to get your needs tended to.
Here’s the thing: even on a cold, winter’s night in the middle of the week, you’ll likely find Borruso’s fairly full and buzzing. The orange walls are a little chipped, and the pin-board of photos a little faded, but this restaurant has something that more newly built restaurants wish they could have: a cosy feel. A new lick of paint, and some dusting around the empty wine bottles wouldn’t go amiss, however.
A cheap, but decent pizza in the suburbs.
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