There’s something quietly powerful about cheese – an ingredient so unassuming, yet endlessly captivating. Whether it’s a creamy Brie melting into warm bread, a sharp Cheddar on a crisp slice of apple or an award-winning Gouda incorporated into a culinary masterpiece, exceptional cheese captures the imagination of chefs and diners alike. Here, industry experts give their insight into the timeless allure of this seemingly simple product, looking at the resurgence of the tableside cheese trolley and the chefs celebrating cheese on their plates. 

A cornerstone of culinary artistry 

More than simply something to enjoy on a cracker, cheese is a fundamental element of creative cooking and delicious food. “I certainly do think that cheese is a vital part of our culinary world,” says Karen Dudley, chef, food writer and restaurateur, who was tasked with curating the cheese trolley at Marble Cape Town. “In South Africa, we should be celebrating our wonderful cheeses and cheesemakers. I believe that a cheese course or fabulous cheese trolley opens up an opportunity of quiet experience, an opportunity to taste something unique of a particular provenance, in a similar way you would reach for experiencing a wine. It is a singular opportunity to taste the land!” she says. 

 Rene Groenewald, Senior Product Developer at Woolworths, agrees: “it offers diversity and complexity. It serves as a flavour carrier and enhancer. If used correctly, cheese can complement and not overpower any dish.” 

Karen adds, “the flavour and texture of cheese is so pure and so distinct. I believe its purity and simplicity calls to our most essential longing.” 

 

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 An ingredient and an experience 

Cheese displays an incredible versatility. It’s the everyday staple in our kitchens, but it’s also the ingredient that elevates fine-dining dishes with layers of texture and nuance. 

As an ingredient, cheese can do many things: it can melt, stretch, crumble or slice. It can be mild or sharp, creamy or firm. It brings depth and character to dishes, enhancing everything from pastas and pastries to soups and sauces. But it’s also an experience. The ritual of choosing, tasting and pairing cheese is as much a sensory journey as it is a culinary one.  

“Research argues that cheese is addictive in a way similar to drugs because of a protein called casein, which is found in dairy products and can trigger the brain’s opioid receptors. So, yes! Cheese is an experience!” Karen exclaims. 

“When we want to create pleasure, what do we do? We add cheese,” she continues. “We grate Parmesan…. We melt cheese onto smash burgers… We make Gruyère soufflés, melting shortbreads, we tear open a burrata. We look for the crystal shard in a vintage Cheddar. We squash a wedge of Brie onto a baguette. And let’s not start on risottos and pizza… So much is saved by cheese!” 

For Peter Duncan, head chef at three-star restaurant La Petite Colombe, it’s clear that cheese is both: “It can be used to enhance flavours and textures in a dish, but it can also stand alone, showcasing its unique characteristics.”  

 

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The return of the cheese trolley 

The culinary world is increasingly returning to the romance of the cheese trolley, a luxurious throwback that gives a sophisticated nod to indulgence and tradition. Once considered an old-school touch, the modern cheese trolley has been reimagined to bring drama to the dining room. “There is an elegance in showcasing extraordinary craft and terroir. In our increasingly harried world, there is a new regard for the processes of time. A cheese trolley is a way to show deference to this. Adding interesting essential pairings reflects something of the soul of the restaurant in a unique way,” explains Karen.  

“Dessert has always been a winning way to end a fine dinner, but for discerning diners, the right cheese is the perfect finish,” she continues. “Cheese trolleys have been neglected in recent times because the cheeses themselves have not been recognised and there has been little imagination by way of presentation of cheeses, an air of surprise that diners would choose that option over sweet. Now we’re beginning to tap into the enormous resource of our local cheese craft.” 

 

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For Rene, the magic lies in the diversity. “People love theatre and being able to engage and learn about products – you can select and try different products with every experience. Its smaller portions give you an opportunity to explore more options.” 

Playing into the theatre of it all, a cheese trolley also allows for an imaginative display. “For the Marble trolley, we use vintage display pieces including plates, bowls, tiles and silverware. We display fruit in season and beautiful preserving jars,” explains Karen.  

“I’m hoping that our trolley tempts participation and invites abandon and some fun! A good cheese experience can truly round out the whole dining experience for the discerning eater… The right cheese for the right person at the right time. A cheese course gives the diner the chance to choose.” 

The local chefs honouring cheese 

With access to exceptional, award-winning cheeses, local chefs have the truly enviable job of elevating these products even further in the perfect cheese course. (“Can you imagine how much fun I have?” Karen asks.) Around the country, our chefs do not disappoint.  

Three-star restaurant Dusk has reinvented a classic sandwich: the Reuben. Their version features slow-cooked ox tongue, crisp rye wafers, a rich smoked Stanford cheese custard, and a fermented black garlic-balsamic emulsion. 

 

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“I celebrate cheese in my dishes by highlighting its versatility, pairing it with complementary flavours and textures, and showcasing its rich history,” says Peter. At La Petite Colombe, diners are treated to “Smoked Stanford, Pear and Mustard”.  

Guests at Eat Out one-star restaurant Chefs Warehouse at Maison can enjoy a goat’s cheese dessert of Belnori St Francis of Ashishi goat’s cheese with toasted rye caraway seed bread and a nectarine verjus jam.  

At two-star restaurant Salon, executive chef Carla Schulze has also reimagined a sandwich, this time the pickle and cheese sandwich. She’s created a laminated brioche bun that’s served with a tangy Bryanston pickle and Parmesan-infused butter.

Final thought

Cheese’s timelessness lies not just in its taste, but in its ability to connect us to tradition, innovation and the sheer love of eating. “The options are endless, I don’t think you’ll ever know everything about cheese,” says Rene. We’re certainly happy to keep trying.