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Review: French bistro fare at The Three Ducks – Les Trois Canards

The owners of L’épis Doré have opened an elegant new French-style bistro in a prime position on the corner of Long and Milner Streets in Waterkloof, Pretoria.

Food

The dinner menu at The Three Ducks – Les Trois Canards is a simple one-pager divided into entrées, plat principaux (mains), items from la boucherie (the butchery) and desserts. Starters include a deconstructed steak tartare, and a sautéed baby calamari dish with raspberries and verjus – a ‘must try’, according to the menu. But it’s often the simpler dishes that speak volumes about a kitchen’s ability. The melanzane alla parmigiana, for instance, was made with great care and attention. With a bit of baguette on the side, it was large enough to share.

Mignon en boîte (R169) – four superb pieces of fillet perfectly cooked with white wine, mushrooms, Dijon, brandy and a dash of cream – could also not have been simpler, nor more delicious. The accompanying sides completing the elegant plate of food were a melange of expertly hand-cut seasonal vegetables and a ramekin of crispy French fries. The Fish Provençale with tomatoes, olives, basil and olive oil was equally well prepared, though a slightly smarter type of fish would have elevated the dish slightly. Other options include sirloin, rack of lamb and duck confit. Desserts include crème brûlée, a Mille Feuille à la Baumaniere, and a croissant pudding with custard and mint essence.

Drinks

Tiny French flags indicate wines of French origin on the wine list, including Hugel & Fils Riesling, Domaine William Fèvre from Chablis, Château de Saint Cosme Rouge from the Côtes du Rhône and Château de Pibarnon Rosé 2013.

A photo posted by Thoula Bofilatos (@thoulab) on

The wine list also showcases some good South African wines, such as Saronsberg Viognier at R225, AA Badenhorst’s Secateurs Chenin Blanc or Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal, to name a few. Wines by the glass are predominantly from Saronsberg, and diners can even enjoy a glass of their Brut MCC.

For those who prefer something other than wine, opt for a swishy Cognac from Delamain or even a fabulous Christian Drouin Cidre Bouche Brut to get really into ‘la vivre Français’.

Service

The smartly dressed waiters add to the sense of relaxed luxury and refinement. Since the team is brand new, there may be the odd slip-up, but everyone is super friendly and accommodating – if the waiting staff are not entirely sure of something, they’re happy to find out.

A photo posted by Thoula Bofilatos (@tbofs) on

Ambience

The restaurant consists of a sidewalk setup; a slightly more casual bistro section with a checkerboard floor adjoining the kitchen; and a larger, more formal dining room with cream and grey-coloured linen-upholstered furniture. Outside, you can lounge, or sit at a table, under the shade of a large tree, to the background sounds of water splashing into a trough.

And…

In addition to the smallish dinner menu, they also have separate menus for breakfast and lunch. For breakfast, try the Auvergne lamb croissant filled with two fried eggs, lamb sausage, bacon, tomato, spicy sauce and rocket, or a French toast BLT with emmenthal, roast tomato, garlic and rocket. Their ‘French favourite’ breakfast section includes oeufs Benedict, oeufs saumon, and oeufs natures – a traditional omelette with grilled tomato and cheese.

A photo posted by Thoula Bofilatos (@thoulab) on

The comprehensive lunch menu starts with a tongue-in-cheek offering that plays on the restaurant’s name, featuring duck breast served in three ways: with creamed lentils, duck confit or foie gras. French classics include fishcakes with poached egg and Hollandaise, as well as salads, soups, quiches, platters and baguettes.

Lastly, there are several Long Street French burgers on offer. One definitely worth trying consists of a brioche bun, a patty made with meat from Alma Butchery, French brie, mushrooms, tomato, caramelised onions and melted emmenthal.

Eat Out critics dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. Read our editorial policy here.

Have you tried anything from the menu at The Three Ducks – Les Trois Canards? Write a review here.

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