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Review: Relaxed fine-dining and extraordinary food at Foxcroft

Fast facts

Name of the restaurant: Foxcroft

Address: Shop 8, High Constantia Centre, Groot Constantia Road, Constantia, Cape Town

Food type: Fine dining

Average price of a main course: Set menu R500 per person

Opening times: Monday to Friday from 12pm; Saturdays and Sundays from 8am

Corkage fee: R100 (excluding wines from their menu)

Parking: Ample free parking in the centre.

Best for… Relaxed fine dining with a wonderful wine pairing.

Food

The main attractions are the six-course set menus for lunch and dinner, but guests can also opt for the reduced menus (including plant-based options), with or without wine pairings. A limited à la carte breakfast menu is available over the weekend.

The way Foxcroft showcases and plays with tastes and techniques is a true celebration of fine dining. Earthy root vegetables are whipped into dreamy foams or fried, while delicious cuts of meat are expertly slow-cooked, smoked or served perfectly seared. The sheer range of techniques involved in every dish is astounding and perfectly executed.

Fresh tuna in the form of Filipino-style ceviche is a lovely beginning to the meal, served on a frothy coconut creme with sharp calamansi limes that elevates the mild fish. Crispy crunchy shallots, pearls of pinoy vinegar caviar and fragrant, herby coriander and basil balance the dish perfectly.

Next the richness of pork is celebrated. Roast belly is presented on a fragrant fruity gravy, with smoked loin and a crispy crackling atop the most delectable pool of frothy smoke-infused celeriac velouté, roasted plum and a pickled onion.

The golden gougère is a delectable little savoury autumnal bite – a rich and sticky sherry-and-mushroom jam is baked into cheesy pastry choux buns and topped with smoked hazelnut pieces.

Desert is an elevated take on the classic marriage of banana, caramel and chocolate. The Valrhona Kidavoa chocolate’s nutty banana notes are subtle and interesting, and the addition of lime zest adds much-needed tanginess.

Drinks

Foxcroft collaborates closely with many smaller local wineries and hosts regular winemaker’s evenings where diners are able to meet the winemakers and share in their passion for their art.

This also means that the staff and sommeliers are intimately acquainted with the wines and their farm of origin, pairing and relaying the story and description of all wines with confidence and pride.

Service

Service is brisk and faultless. Each course and its accompanying wine is promptly delivered as empty plates and glasses are cleared.

The much-needed description and breakdown of each dish can be a bit rushed at times, and you might have to ask for clarity on a few elements, but it’s no wonder considering how complex the dishes are.

Ambience

The central fireplace warms the room up on winter nights, creating a welcoming atmosphere.

The interior is modern and minimal, with exposed ceilings, cement floors and sleek, simple leather furniture. On sunny days, a table on the veranda is unbeatable.

 

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