Ruth

Thursday, November 1st, 2012

Reviewed by Ruth OReillySmith

Dining out is less about the food and more about the experience, and I have been waiting for this experience for well over a year, since our return to South Africa after a long absence. We’ve booked at a restaurant mentioned only in the context of exquisite food, great service and the need to dig deep to pay the bill at the end of the evening, probably the main reason we’ve taken this long to make the reservation.
This is the Blu Saffron, set in the grounds of the Pretoria Country Club. We drive up through the security boom and into the poorly lit car park; only just missing the large piece of concrete and tar jutting out of the middle of the road. It has been said that the sign of a good restaurant is a full restaurant and from the busy car park, our expectations are about to be met and far exceeded.
The thatch roof, slate steps and running water are a warm welcome on a cool, breezy week night. A kindly-looking older gentleman dressed formally in his black suit trousers, white shirt and black waistcoat takes us to our table. We find ourselves in one of many rooms, and I quickly realise that this is maybe not going to be quite the romantic space I was hoping to find tucked away beneath the tall trees of a well-known Pretoria golf course. The conflicting elements unsettle me, the lights hang low but shine brightly and I sadly miss a candle on our table. The wall behind us is a deep red and there are soft inviting chairs and cushions, but we are seated in the middle of the bright room, at a table with straight-backed, hard chairs right in front of what looks like a storage table. There’s a selection of wine glasses and tumblers on top and two silver ice buckets in front and the table is pushed right up next to the long fridge with a “Golsh” sign along the side. There is a wall-to-wall mirror to our right and dramatic paintings across the stark-white of the other walls. Unfortunately the smell of thatch, the tranquil music and the indoor water features do little to shake my initial disappointment.
The arrival of our freshly baked bread rolls and Stellenbosch Alto Rouge blend 2009 bring me back to one of the main reasons we are here – to eat and drink. The food does not disappoint and the service is impeccable, although it does at times feel like we are spectators surrounded by a conveyor belt of staff. We are entertained by a finely tuned, well-timed routine around our table; an elegant woman takes our drinks order, one of the owners barks out the food specials for the night and takes our food order and a man dressed in black suit trousers, waistcoat and white shirt humbly serves the food. This is a busy place.
The food lands with surprising grace amid the frantic dance, and more than satisfies. We start with Thai-style linefish-cakes and tomato and basil soup, move on to the rump, cooked to medium perfection with chunks of blue cheese on top and a side bowl of blue cheese sauce – a little too much for an Englishman but just right for the South African palate. I have the kingklip in mushroom and lemon butter sauce grilled to melt-in-your-mouth precision. Both dishes have beautifully roasted vegetables in their own individual bowl on the main plate alongside small butter potatoes. I am happy to say I do not resist the ice cream and hot chocolate sauce which is pure velvet on the tongue, finished off perfectly with a strong filter coffee.
The meal has met our every taste bud expectation and although the food is pricey, I don’t think it’s unreasonable. I do however leave this restaurant resigned to the fact that the Blu Safron is very good at serving the golfing enthusiast, the business person and the tourist, but is not quite as good at meeting the needs of the local romantic, looking for a quiet hideaway for a few hours.