Diane de Beer
In the year that chef Davies Moagi has led the young team at this fine restaurant, he has developed a clear signature for his cuisine. Exquisitely presented dishes have clean lines and clear tastes and his passion for food and establishing his individual style in the industry is paying off big time.
There’s a subtlety yet confidence in dishes such as delicate beetroot cheesecake accompanied by roasted baby beets, beetroot-cured salmon and beetroot ice cream served with mustard, honey and truffle oil as a starter. Also on the menu is a comforting spinach-and-potato soup; a trio of seafood with perfectly crunchy prawns; beautifully prepared biltong-rubbed springbok loin with coffee-smoked lamb rib, grilled fig, sweet potato fondant and pea purée; and the fantastic finale of orange-and-white-chocolate cheesecake with orange sorbet. To top it all is the signature granita – on this night it’s pineapple flavoured.
The balance and quality of the complete meal satisfies but doesn’t overwhelm in taste or quantity. The chef has truly taken flight and Tshwane should be proud of the addition to its fine-dining accomplishments.
The pairing choices are excellent, with Pecan Stream or Tormentoso chenin blanc for starters, Iona sauvignon blanc with the fish course, Hartenberg Doorkeeper shiraz for the sturdier mains and Thelema Vin de Hel muscat late harvest to end on a sweet note.
There’s a lovely laid-back atmosphere in the dining room and that’s due to the staff, their smooth service and the way they embrace their customers.
Granita is about 30 minutes from the capital city and it feels like another world as you escape into the African countryside to arrive at your destination of gabled Cape-Dutch architecture, rolling lawns and star- or sun-filled skies. Everything is set to turn the experience into something special.
It’s good to encourage young chefs who show promise. Granita gets it right time after time.
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