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Festive fizz

By Claire Hu

There’s nothing quite like a few bubbles to get people in the party spirit. As a 16th-century English dramatist commented: “It quickly recovers poor languishing lovers; Makes us frolic and gay; And drowns all sorrow.”
 
And what could get you more in the mood for a party than cracking open a bottle of South Africa’s own Cap Classique this Christmas? Cap Classique and French Champagne are made using the same method, which involves a blended still wine undergoing a second fermentation in the bottle after the addition of sugar and yeast.

Many different styles of Cap Classique are made in South Africa, and their variety depends on factors such as the grapes used, how long the bubbly is aged, and how much sugar is added. Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc are the traditional cultivars of choice, but many winemakers have been switching to Pinot Noir (which adds fruit and body), Chardonnay (which adds ageing potential and finesse), and Pinot Meunier (which adds a girly floral aroma).
 
Blanc de Blancs means the Cap Classique is made from white grapes, a Blanc de Noir is made from red grapes and a Brut is normally a mixture (a gentle pressing ensures no colour leaches out of the red grape skins).
 
Expert Michael Fridjhon and I decided to taste our way through 16 of the best Cap Classiques with a group of friends to help you make your festive choices. I cooked dishes that should, in theory, complement fizz: sushi, a creamy mushroom pasta dish, a tomato, basil and goat’s cheese galette, and chicken satay.
 
We tasted two Blanc de Blancs; nine Bruts and four rosé Cap Classiques. I later tasted the Bouchard Finlayson with another group. We were measuring factors such as the fineness and persistence of the bubbles; aromas such as biscuit, brioche, floral, fruity and spicy notes; the intensity of the flavours and the overall balance.
 
Our favourites are highlighted, with the Simonsig Blanc de Blancs being our overwhelming favourite, followed by Graham Beck Clive and Klein Constantia in joint second place and Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel in third place.
 
Simonsig Blanc de Blancs 2005 (Overall winner)
Lovely, light and zesty with lemon sherbet and baking bread notes. Elegant and creamy with a long-lasting, delicate mousse. Utterly delicious.
 
Klein Constantia Brut 2006 (Favourite)  
This was one of the closest in style to a French Champagne, and very popular. Bursting with zingy citrus acidity and yeasty brioche notes, delicate in the mouth with good balance and a long length.
 
Graham Beck Cuvée Clive 2003 (Joint second place)
You can expect to pay more for this, which is made only in exceptional years, and it shows. Yeasty, with notes of strawberry cheesecake, pear and jasmine on the nose, still fresh with a creamy mouthfeel.
 
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2008 (Third place)
Fresh lime acidity and a hint of brioche. Quite a simple and easy-drinking fizz with no hidden depths.
 
Boschendal Grand Cuvée Brut 2006 (Favourite)
This is a really opulent and fruity bubbly, full of notes of pears, cream and biscuits. There are very persistent bubbles and a long finish.
 
Villiera Tradition Brut (Favourite)
Voluptuous, fruity, rich and rounded with a hint of caramel biscuits. A distinct, unusual style.
 
La Motte Brut 2007 (Favourite)
Opinion was strongly divided between those who disliked the sweet, fermented apple taste and slightly salty kelp note, and others who loved the herbal, aniseed quality and good structure.
 
Avondale Brut
Very ripe and fruity, a bit too sweet for most of us.
 
Cederberg Brut Blanc de Blancs 2005
Quite tight on the nose. Herbal acidity, hint of overripe guava and minerality. Drying finish.
 
Graham Beck Brut
This is one of SA’s big sellers. There is a hint of raspberry and an oily note. It’s quite fresh and balanced in the mouth, but some tasters found it too tart. Fine, long bubbles.
 
Philip Jonker Brut
Intense notes of sweet cooked butter, very full flavoured, with big bubbles that disappeared quickly. A thick texture.
 
Pierre Jourdan Cuvée Reserve
Rich and buttery, biscuit, stewed rhubarb with hint of tree sap on nose. Fine bubbles.
 
Rosé
 
Allée Bleue Brut Rosé
A very pale and delicate colour. The women loved the stylish label and thought it would make a great beach wine. In the mouth, there was a muscat note but it was a bit insipid.

Kloovenburg Shiraz
This sparkling wine (not an MCC) was very fruity, almost like Ribena with a kick. Not overly complex but difficult to dislike.

Simonsig Pinot Noir Brut
Full-on raspberries and roses, very girly and tarty. Everyone loved the beautiful blush colour.  A good summer quaffer.
 
Villiera Tradition Brut Rosé
Rhubarb drops and tomato, a bit confected for most.

 

Win a canapé and bubbly experience for you and three friends at Cuvee at Simonsig wine estate.

Photograph courtesy of Woolworths TASTE.

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