I don’t think my request to see the anchovies at a local pizzeria before ordering was received all that well last week. I had to hastily explain that there are so many dodgy-looking and -tasting ones that could land up on my much-loved pizza alongside the fresh basil, olives, and a touch of fresh chilli. Anyway, the anchovies in question turned out to be just as they should be: small and salty with a reddish-brown glow, not like the over-salted sardine types with a vile aftertaste that are often smothered on.

I had a lovely experience once in Venice at the Rialto market, where I spent some time watching a particular local gentleman who had had his seafood stall for over 30 years. He sat carefully deveining piles of the freshest anchovies just pulled from the sea. He did it by using his thumb to gently remove the vein, and then piled them up on top of each other to display for the many nonnas who would take them home either to pan fry while fresh or layer in coarse salt.

I have heard Italian foodies talk about smoked anchovies too and that really takes my fancy! Some while ago you were able to buy Ortiz anchovies tightly packed in their traditional yellow and red retro tins, but sadly I haven't seen them for ages. Fresh marinated white anchovies are more subtle as they have been only preserved in vinegar. Although they don't enjoy any cooling, they do add a bit of tartness to a Caesar salad. This combination I remember eating for the first time at The Showroom with Bruce Robertson as the wacky creative chef.

I bump onto him often buying fresh fish at Flapping Fresh in Kommetijie, and he's now opened up his home in Scarboroughto create a seaside guesthouse restaurant, The Boat House.

While we’re on the subject of these small fish, another epicurean essential condiment is nam pla, better known as fish sauce, which is fermented anchovies with that elusive 5th flavour of umami. Lifting and seasoning many Asian-inspired dishes, it’s definitely my favourite ingredient to use right now.

Happy eating! 
Abigail

Photographs: (featured on home page) Kathryn in Stereo and (this page) Kitay