There’s sun, sea, sand and plenty to eat in one of South Africa’s favourite holiday spots. Anne Stevens shares the best of the best.

Many locals find the change of pace disturbing, but if you’re looking for the most happening place outside Durban, it has to be Umhlanga. Theres a booming new town on the ridge, with the huge Gateway complex at its centre.

Down in the village, close to the beach, sleek glass towerblocks are rising on the beachfront in front of the small shopping hub, which is lined with restaurants spilling out on to the pavement and on weekends theres a carnival feeling in the air.

If you’re venue-hopping, start at Verde (031 561 7849) in the courtyard of Granada Square, which serves up a menu loosely based on the Portuguese dishes of South America. Interesting breakfasts (a mushroom tortilla with roasted tomato and organic bacon is a good example) make way for the likes of rolled beef flank stuffed with spinach, carrots and egg later on. Vegetarians are well catered for.

Then it’s past Europa and the George pub and on to Luigi’s (031 561 3988) and Myra’s Kitchen (031 561 7238). Both have a buzzy pavement café vibe, the former dishing up good pizzas and a wide range of pastas. The latter favours more upmarket dishes such as crumbed calamari stuffed with chorizo, basil and ricotta, and harissa lamb loin with sultana polenta. The posh fish and chips are a hit for a lighter lunch.

A little further down is SoSushi (031 566 3544), which has a carousel and inspired snacky items such as Peking duck handrolls. Zulu sushi – rare beef fillet on wasabi mash – is another hit. You’ll find more sushi a bit further up the hill at Hi.Ta.Lo. (031 561 2705), a clean-lined shopfront with a laden carousel and a few tables.

If you turn towards the sea, you’ll see the perennially popular Zara’s (031 561 2511), where you can kick off the day with ciabatta towers layered with scrambled egg, mushroom, mince and haloumi. The Welsh rarebit alone is worth an outing, and the cakes are stupendous.

Around the corner you’ll find Ile Maurice (031 561 7609), one of the province’s top restaurants, which is housed in an old building oozing colonial charm. Slickly run by the Mauvis family, it specialises in the freshest of fish, seafood and Mauritian dishes such as beef rougaille, fish vindaye and octopus curry, all served with basmati rice, black lentils and sambals. Don’t miss the langoustine-and-lentil soup or the crayfish curry, it’s legendary.

If you keep going along McCausland Crescent, you’ll come to Kashmir (031 561 7486), with its crisp napery and dreamy view of the sea from the upstairs deck. The menu is centred on regional Indian food, particularly the rich, creamy dishes of the north, and treats from the tandoor. The weekend buffet of Durban Indian food is a giveaway at R70 (out of season).

Down on the beachfront, the two matriarchs of KZN’s hotel family have been given a new lease on life.

The Oyster Box (031 514 5000), which recently reopened in stunning style after two years of renovations that cost about R580 million, has three venues worth checking out.

The elegant Grill Room has white and dark-blue décor and offers some of the best seafood in town. The hotel’s tradition of a Saturday night dinner-dance has been continued and is invariably fully booked.

The Ocean Terrace is decked out in sea-green and blue shades and overlooks Umhlanga’s iconic lighthouse. Do as guests have done for years and sit outside and slurp fresh oysters. The curry buffet may be pricey at R185, but it includes a generous prawn-and-chicken curry, a gutsy crab version, lamb vindaloo and tandoor breads among its offerings.

Upstairs, the Lighthouse Bar offers panoramic views of the coastline, modern colonial-meets-modern decor and interesting snack platters.

Next door, the Beverly Hills Hotel (031 561 2211) has also had a facelift in time for its 45th birthday. Executive chef Shaun Munro has sexed up the menu in the Sugar Club Restaurant without straying too far from the classic tone of the room.

Gravadlax has been given oomph with beetroot added to the curing mix, and smoked Franschhoek trout is served with truffle-scented scrambled eggs. Duck comes in a duo of slow-cooked leg on mash, and breast stir-fry on savoury noodles.

You can’t mention the Beverly Hills without thinking about breakfast: the Sugar Club’s sunny terrace is the perfect place to start the day: choose from a huge cold buffet and finish off with stellar eggs Benedict.

Downstairs, cool, white Elements opens out onto the pool and another terrace and offers lighter fare that focuses on seafood from noon until 10.30pm.

There are many more places to eat in the village: beach bistros, Italian trattorias, Chinese and Thai venues, good steakhouses, family seafood restaurants and even a retro diner full of rock memorabilia.

What was once a lazy beachfront village now caters for just about every taste, which is even more reason to pay it a visit – as if you needed one!