Critic's review

Richard Holmes

Food
You’re spoilt for choice here with a wide-ranging menu that runs from risotto to pasta to pizza. Aside from a few lighter dishes, the focus is on Italian comfort food with a wide range of trattoria classics. Pastas are offered in a range of homemade sauces, while the more substantial carne and pesce options will suit those with a big appetite. The vitello limone and lamb shanks roasted with lemon, red wine and rosemary are both popular options. Prices are fair and the portions generous, but not all hit the mark. A dish of good-quality gnocchi was let down by gorgonzola sauce curiously devoid of flavour. The wood-fired pizzas are always a safe bet though, and are available with both classic (Margherita) and more adventurous (boerewors and bacon) toppings. To finish, you’ll find a sizeable dessert menu that ticks all the trattoria boxes: Venetian cassata, tiramisu and canoli’s.

Drinks
A surprisingly wide-ranging list that leans heavily towards local estates, supplemented by a handful of major labels from further afield. There’s a small selection of Italian wines. Wines by the glass are limited.

Service
Plenty of homegrown Italian warmth, with Fabio himself often out on the floor, but rather hit-and-miss in the efficiency department.

Ambience
A trattoria and proud of it, from the clichéd décor to the tricolore paper napkins. Unpretentious, cosy and welcoming.

And…
The selection of local and Italian grappas will tempt you into enjoying a digestif.

• Ambience

  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

• Service

  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

• Food

  ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

• Greg Landman

  Food 
  This is the sort of place where the owner, Fabio himself, goes into the hills around Hermanus to gather porcini mushrooms, which you might be lucky to enjoy fresh in the most delicious risotto or dried at a later stage. Twice recognised by the Italian Chamber of Commerce as being the only Italian restaurant in the Overberg truly reflecting authentic Italian characteristics, this is the place to go when you want to indulge in the real thing.

  Fabulous carpaccios of beef or smoked springbok, delicate and delicious, topped with parmesan shavings and anointed with the best olive oil, make great starters. The same goes for the rich but satisfying baked mushrooms with gorgonzola and spinach. Try one of the pastas, maybe with prawn and clam meat in a creamy sauce or smoked salmon in a rich tomato sauce with a touch of garlic. There are 23 pizzas if you really must, including one with boerewors, bacon, ham and onion. You’ll find plenty of meat and fish dishes, as well as the freshest, most inventive of salads, one with rich blue cheese dressing. Finish up with one of the semi-freddo deserts, the version made with Kahlua is completely irresistible.

  Drinks 
  They offer a very good list with local treasures (like the Ataraxia Sauvignon Blanc and the Strandveld First Sighting Shiraz) and others to suit most tastes and pockets. Also on offer is a good list of aperitivos (to enjoy before your meal) like Prosecco with a shot of that delicious Italian liqueur, Aperol, and digestivos (for afterwards), like the best Italian grappas.

  Service 
  Friendly and attentive in the country manner.

  Ambience 
  Not having a share of 'the view' on which many of Hermanus’s restaurants pride themselves, this place tries harder, with a charming, very authentic interior that's cosy and delightful in winter and in the evenings. There is a verandah on the street side, which is popular in the summer.

  And... 
  Do visit the deli and take home some real Italian goodies.

  (July 2014)

• Greg Landman

  Food
  This is the real thing as far as Italian food is concerned in this neck of the woods. This is attested to by Fabio being awarded yet another citation from the Italian Chamber of Commerce for presenting food that is in keeping with their high standards. Expect the most superb pasta dishes with prawns, seafood, creamy smoked salmon, artichokes and so on. There are more than 30 different combinations. If risottos are your thing, he makes them with porcini picked in the hills around Hermanus; else go on to the meat dishes like veal strips in cream, game and lamb cutlets. End with semi freddo zabaglione with various alcoholic additions like Amaretto – heaven.
  
  Wine
  A good list, if somewhat pricey in certain categories. Nevertheless, you’ll find something suitable.
  
  Service
  Friendly and professional.
  
  Ambience
  Though not sharing any of the view for which Hermanus is famous, this is a real Italian trattoria which delivers plenty of charm and such good food you will not be disappointed.
  
  And…
  Take home some of the excellent Italian fare available at their deli.
  
  (February 2014)
• Food
  Expect the best kind of Italian cooking with fresh ingredients lovingly handled. The mushroom risotto, made with porcini gathered by Fabio in the Hermanus hills, has that distinct Marmite smell and is deliciously meaty. The veal dishes are superb; pizzas are like mama used to make them; and pastas with creamy or meaty sauces are all fabulous. This is one of only ten restaurants in South Africa to qualify for the Marchio Ospitalità Italiana by the Italian Chamber of commerce (Rome) for authenticity.
  
  Wine
  A very good list, not badly priced, features some great wines from the Walker Bay area and some Italian examples.
  
  Service
  Very good, light and relaxed with Fabio himself often there.
  
  Ambience
  Molto simpatico. Nice and cosy with checkered tablecloths and Italian pics on the wall. It’s casual and relaxed, except when it comes to the food, about which they are serious.
  
  And...
  Take something home from the deli, where you’ll find some imported gems, carefully chosen. (GL, October 2012)