We pay a visit to La Storia, a new spot on the Durban restaurant scene.

The mood 
You can’t help but notice the new restaurant nestling in the façade of the old Westville Hotel. Large sliding windows are emblazoned with La Storia in a black and gold font, reminiscent of a shop front of an old apothecary.

Rustic wooden shelves brimming with window boxes and plants in terracotta pots shield diners from inquisitive stares and filter soft light into the restaurant.

The people
With a mantra of food, wine and tradition, owners Marco and Kerryne Nico purposefully set about creating a space that exudes a homely warmth.

“Marco found the space and was trying a million different ideas. I said to him he needs to stick to Italian. I wanted it to be homely and old world, like it’s been here a million years… and we’ve got it,” says Kerryne happily.

With over two decades of experience, Marco has an enviable culinary prowess and innate knowledge of what the market will respond to. Once it was decided to create an Italian eatery, it was time to get introspective and, inevitably, family became the axis around which the décor revolved.

Old photos take pride of place and tribute is paid to Marco’s grandmother whose large photographic portrait takes pride of place. Under her immortalised, watchful eye, five-year-old Alessandro drifts around the restaurant, snacking on prawns mid-morning, foraging for biscotti and observing staff going about their duties. La Storia is about celebrating the old, but also creating modern day history. On the back wall two long rows of small rectangular chalk boards each hold a word or two to make up the following message: “You are surrounded by memories of our life. Please join us in making this wall your memory wall. You are invited to bring a picture in a frame, the older the better, so this can be part of Natal’s local heritage. Let’s celebrate our province, we have so much to offer.”

The food 
As if asked to choose his favourite child, Marco cannot – or will not – identify signature dishes, but he does make reference to the hand-stretched pizzas. “Everyone thinks they must be these thin-based, crispy things. In Italy you won’t see a thin, crispy pizza. The middle must be thin but it must have a crust that must rise,” he says earnestly, pointing out the air bubble that runs through the centre of his feather-light pizza’s crust. 

Classic pizzas feature but, never one to conform, he has also included some more unlikely versions under the heading “my style”. The flammkuchen (which has no tomato base) with cream cheese, onion, pepper, lardons of bacon and fresh mozzarella keeps company with tandoori chicken and pulled pork versions.

There are also diametrically opposed pastas from a traditional carbonara to his much-lauded oriental penne with chicken, cream, curry, dhania and a dash of tomato. Marco has put his name to a tomato salad – which first made its restaurant debut 22 years ago – where they are cut to order and the juice becomes the dressing, partnered with herbs and extra virgin olive oil.

Another starter that is likely to gain a cult-like following is wood-roasted lemons stuffed with anchovies, artichokes, olives, baby tomatoes and goat's cheese. Main course comfort food is represented by the likes of chicken Florentine stuffed with mushroom, Parmesan and parsley served on a herb risotto with pan jus, or his grandmother’s recipe for steak encased in a Parmesan and breadcrumb crust. Marco’s daily specials are dependent on the market, serendipity and his mood, like the decision to make homemade truffle pasta after a client bequeathed him two truffles as he was unsure what to do with them.

Marco has barely caught his breath since opening in June and has already earmarked the adjoining space for a casual, daytime-only venue. “It’ll be early morning comfort food. I don’t like breakfast generally, but what can be better than homemade bread with a pile of bacon? I am not looking to re-invent the wheel. Good bread, overfilled sandwiches and good eggs from hens that are happy,” he says. It will also have a small deli and be an outlet for artisan breads baked in the wood-fired oven, and his homecured meats.

The wine
A thoughtful list avoids cheap-and-not-so-cheerfuls, instead focusing on better quality, value-for-money wines. A good representation of varietals includes malbec, viognier and gewürztraminer, plus some interesting blends. One page has been dedicated to a wonderful selection of South African wines that are made from Italian varietals.

The service
Kerryne assists in front of house (her easy charm belies her exacting standards and relentless quest to ensure smooth service) and she is a good sounding board for food or wine recommendations or pairings. The warm, capable team is menu proficient and backed up by an efficient kitchen.

And…
Book for a laid-back four-course cooking demo with Marco. They are held every six weeks and the cost is R200 per person.

The verdict
Seasoned restaurateur and chef Marco Nico has created another culinary oasis. Go and make history with him.  

By Lee Pendock
Photographs: Clinton Friedman

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