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In search of cannelé

In the last two months I have been exposed to a new magical discovery – or perhaps more like an epiphany. I have often seen pictures of them, but had never made them, simply because I’m not lucky enough to own the proper authentic tins.

I am talking about cannelé (pronounced can-eu-lay), which originate from Bordeaux. This confection has a rich custardy inside, with a slightly caramelised outside edge.

My first bite was from chef Tanja Kruger at Makaron Restaurant in Stellenbosch. Tanja explained that the outside should be a bit burnt to give it that glorious bittersweet flavour, followed by the set pudding with a crème caramel kind of texture.

These spongy and soft cakes feel like they have been soaked in rum syrup a bit like a rum baba, but Tanja explained that the rum is inside. Cannelé are addictively good and something so comforting happens when you eat them. (And instantly start craving another one.)

The recipe is quite simple. You leave the batter overnight in the fridge and then bake the cannelé in a fluted copper moulds, which give them their unique ridged style. I’m currently in search for some of these moulds without making a trip to France.

Then just last week, a friend of mine, who’s on the verge of setting up a confectionery stall at a local market, asked me to pop by and taste her new idea. And there on her kitchen counter was a tray of these magnificent morsels. She has been trying to perfect cannelé so she can add them to her product list. She was in a bit of a quandary, worrying that some may think they are burnt, as they were a little charred around the fluted edges, but they were just as they should be. A silicone muffin tray was used, which seemed to work well!

We were going to put the kettle on for a cup of tea, but instead chose to celebrate with rosé bubbles, which made a perfect match.

Abigail

Image: Rubber Boots in Italy

Tanja Kruger's cannelé recipe
(Makes about 20, but depends on the size of the mould)

Ingredients:
1 litre milk
A pinch of salt
4 eggs
4 yolks
1 vanilla pod
10ml rum
200g flour
500g castor sugar
100g butter

Method:
Bring the milk, butter and vanilla to the boil and remove from the heat. Sift the flour and the sugar together into the milk mixture. Add the eggs to the batter. Leave the batter to cool and add the rum. Leave the batter in the fridge for at least 8 hours. Spray the cannelé moulds liberally with non-stick spray. Bake at 270'C for 5 min and then turn the oven down to 180'C for 30 min.

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