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New review: authentic, owner-run Italian at That’s Amore in Parktown North

This authentic, owner-run establishment dishes up great quality Italian food and charms with friendly, efficient service, finds Gwynne Conlyn.

Food:

When you see that most of the essential ingredients at an Italian restaurant are imported from the Mama Country, it’s a good indication of what the quality of such a place will be.

In addition, this small place is owner-run. The Italian-born, very much hands-on chef Lorenzo Corleo and his partner Alfonso di Muro have created a hole-in-the-wall eatery in a somewhat obscure part of one of the leafy inner suburbs of Joburg.

The short menu tempts with a selection of changing dishes, with the likes of fried dough balls filled with mozzarella and best-quality anchovies. The menu may also include two very popular dishes, a steaming plate of tender ossobuco del burbero, or spuntature di maiale (pork belly, pork sausage and pork shoulder served with potatoes).

Of course, homemade and therefore melt-in-the-mouth pastas also feature, such as penne alla Genovese with a rich, slow-cooked, onion-based sauce.

All menu items are described in Italian and English, and delightfully so – the gamberi alla Napoletana is a firm favourite, not only for its sweet, perfectly pink prawns but also the description: “black tiger prawns jumped in the pan with garlic and chili”.

For dessert, opt for the scrumptious Neapolitan sponge cake with rum sauce, or ask for one of the classics like tiramisu. The fare isn’t cheap but considering the quality and portion size, the ouch is worth it.

Food at That's Amore. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Food at That’s Amore. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Wine:

The focus is on Italian varietals, with Pinot Grigio and Chianti by the glass.

Service:

These are competent, gorgeous people full of charm. They’ve got one (charming and efficient) man as front of house man – Alfonso’s aim is to get your mouth watering in anticipation, which he does very well.

Ambience:

The slightly ersatz painting of an Italian balcony doesn’t detract from the delicious chocolate brown interior of this restaurant, which cossets as it tempts you into indulgences.

The interior at That's Amore. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

The interior at That’s Amore. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

And…

There’s live jazz as accompaniment to Sunday lunch. It’s also a good spot to enjoy a traditional Italian breakfast with a foaming cup of Illy coffee out on the pavement, watching the joggers go by.

Have you been to That’s Amore? Tell us about it in the comments.

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