Hennie Fisher finds that old-school elegance has a lot going for it at Oliver’s Restaurant and Lodge in White River.

The food

This is the sort of place where foodies feel at home and where fashionable fads are eschewed. The standard dinner menu offers an interesting ‘middle course’ slightly larger than a starter but ideal as a light main course or a suitable ‘ladies portion’ in the style of the 70s. Owner Tanya Ruff insists that many diners have starters, the middle course and main course.

To start, your options are cold-smoked ostrich carpaccio with mushroom tartare and parmesan shavings; white asparagus and cauliflower soup with truffle-scented crème fraîche and parmesan croutons; or smoked duck salad with baby corn, orange segments and wild rocket grown in their own large herb garden.

The special middle course options often include chickpea timbale with a roasted pepper filling and Mediterranean ratatouille; scallops with cauliflower purée; and even an old-fashioned cheese fondue – prepared in a cup for a modern twist – with figs and baguette.

For your main meal, choose between the springbok loin with a gin and juniper sauce, red cabbage and potato croquettes; grilled kingklip with a prawn and crab ceviche and potato-leek mash; or a decadent kudu and Amarula pie. These dishes are served with interesting veggies such as baby turnips, candied beets or young butternut.

Oliver’s Restaurant interior

The drinks

A very well-designed wine list covers all the bases, from JC le Roux Le Domaine to Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial, from Villiera Sauvignon Blanc to Springfield Life from Stone, and from Kleine Zalze Pinotage to Sumaridge Epitome 2009.

The service

Impeccable. This is the type of restaurant where the honeymoon table comes with a scattering of rose petals and dinner is always served on piping hot plates. Seasoned waiters are clearly used to dealing with a variety of foreign guests. You will in all likelihood be invited to enjoy a pre-dinner drink in the bar (with lovely built-in banquettes), where you will be presented with the menu to make a selection prior to being seated at your table. Once at the table, lovely warm crusty bread is delivered, accompanied by a soft aubergine spread.

The ambience

The restaurant is part of a small hotel on beautifully maintained grounds overlooking golfing greens. There are a number of fireplaces in strategic places around the common areas, and the dining room boasts an impressive window framing a spectacular view. When the weather allows it, meals can be taken on the enormous wrap-around stoep. The garden offers a romantic gazebo set with a dinner table for two.

The Verandah at Oliver’s

And…

Book the cellar for traditional fondue and raclette evenings and entertain a group of friends.

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