Some Swiss friends were describing to me at the weekend how they make proper glühwein, or mulled wine. They melt a sugar cone gently over a grater, which is balanced over a pot of barely simmering wine and spices. The steam gently allows the sugar cone to drip slowly, sweetening the delicious warming combinations. I have often seen these cones sold at Raith Gourmet in the Gardens Centre, otherwise you can use sugar cubes. Use a bottle of dry red wine: a pinot noir for a lighter version, or a cabernet for a more full-bodied drink. Add a few cinnamon sticks, orange rind and cloves to the liquid and never boil it, or else all the alcohol will evaporate.

By Abigail Donnelly

Photograph: iStock/Cyclopes Photographie