This speakeasy-style eatery ticks all the right boxes: cool bar, trendy décor, attentive service, and innovative takes on food from the Americas, Asia, Italy and Mexico. But what really gives The National Eatery the thumbs up is its ‘farm to table’ approach. They can trace the origin of all the ingredients they use. Some of their protein, and all of their veggies, herbs, fruit and eggs, come from the family farm, Brightside, out in the Magaliesberg. The chef behind this wonder? James Diack, the owner of Coobs in Parkurst, who is clearly creating a culinary stir in the area.

Food

The stand-out dishes here come from Diack’s reverse Texan smoker. Items like pork, duck, chicken, beef – even ricotta cheese – have been delicately home-smoked using only fruit and oak wood. The indirect heat and fragrant smoke adds real depth to the hand-chopped pork or chicken tacos, and the smoked pork belly with corn purée and BBQ jus.

Smoked pork belly and corn puree at The National Eatery. Photo courtesy of the Rupesh Kassen.

The menu has some rewarding surprises, such as crispy fried tofu with coriander and chilli served in a hearty bowl of glass noodles in a coconut-lemongrass broth. Also look out for the creative burger combinations, like chermoula-spiced lamb with smoked ricotta and tzatziki.

Wild boar ragu at The National Eatery. Photo courtesy of the Rupesh Kassen.

While all the food here is full of generous flavour, the wild boar ragu is pure comfort. Braised for 18 hours in a tomato sauce and served with luscious homemade duck-egg pasta, tasting this dish is an almost life-changing experience. Finish off your meal with churros served with dulce de leche, or indulge in the beer-battered Snickers with choc-chip ice cream.

Drinks

The wine list is well priced and carefully chosen, with a good selection from boutique wine farms, such as Ataraxia, Blackwater and Domain de Daley. Many wines are available by the glass, so you’re not limited to the usual house white or red. For beer drinkers, there are local beers and a selection of craft beers on tap. Service Efficient and keen, yet quite informal.

The bar at The National Eatery. Photo courtesy of the Rupesh Kassen.

Ambience

The restaurant is decorated with distressed wood panels, interesting art and the bar’s all exposed brick and copper piping. The small outdoor deck that faces the street is perfect for lunch or balmy Jozi evenings

And…

Look out for the specials menu. James offers exciting new options weekly, which will certainly keep me coming back for more.

Eat Out critics dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. Read the editorial policy here.

Have you been to The National Eatery in Parktown North? Share your experience by writing a review.

The speakeasy-style interior at The National Eatery. Photo courtesy of the Rupesh Kassen.