Review: The Pot Luck Club Cape Town

Thursday, December 7th, 2023

Food
This was the first of Luke Dale Roberts’ forays into modern tapas territory and, after 11 years, it just gets better. Expect small sharing plates with full-throttle flavour in a stylish setting with a view of the city and the energy to match. The menu is a reflection of a variety of global cuisines and flavours.The food here is designed to be shared, so order a few plates (or one of everything) and get stuck in. The perennially popular taco 2.0 is the perfect combination of flavours and textures: thin, fresh slivers of yellowtail ceviche, creamy avocado, sweet charred corn, and black-bean purée are brought together by the smoky and slightly spicy notes of the chipotle dressing. Ash-roasted beetroot with hoisin dressing, coriander pesto and ponzu mayo brings vibrant colours and interesting textures: finely cubed beetroot, strands of crispy fried sweet potato and zesty radish married with pesto, ponzu mayo and an umami-loaded hoisin dressing. King oyster mushroom with black pepper cep au lait is cooked to perfection, with a memorable finger-licking-good sauce, which is just sweet and creamy enough to complement the umami-rich mushroom. Duck and roasted sweetbreads, plum gastrique, macadamia butter, pine nuts, XO sauce and poultry bordelaise with elderflower extract display a mastery of execution with casual and confident delivery. For dessert, try the likes of the peanut-butter bomb – banana mousse, honeycomb crunch, banana tuille and Frangelico sabayon – it’s the perfect marriage of flavours. The interesting texture created by the peanut and honeycomb crunch is beautifully softened by the Frangelico sabayon. Other options include Jerusalem-artichoke tart with apple, bourbon and vanilla cream, oat crumble and coffee syrup; or chocolate, rum and tonka bean canelé with pistachio-and-orange choux bun. If you prefer something savoury, go for a selection of cheeses and preserves with lavash. This is a restaurant for a special occasion, as prices do add up, but absolutely worth the treat.

Drinks
The Pot Luck Club is known for its innovative cocktails: try the Thai green curry or pineapple-and-vanilla martini. There’s a well-curated wine list with exciting options by both the glass and bottle, as well as a wide selection of spirits and a few beers. Some non-alcoholic choices are also available.

Service
Service is enthusiastic and slick, with all the servers having good knowledge of the dishes on offer.

Ambience
The energy from the open kitchen on the one end and the cocktail bar on the other is exciting. There are almost-wraparound views of the city, with the harbour on one side and the mountain on the other, with laser-cut partitions that echo the skyline and mountain providing demarcation and privacy between tables. It’s an edgy, almost industrial space.