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The unrivaled excellence of South African brandy

South African brandy regularly receives global recognition and acclaim, and yet gathers little attention on its home turf. When compared to other popular spirits, such as gin or whisky, why does brandy not receive much respect? We spoke with industry experts to learn what makes South African brandy so unique and why it deserves more local recognition.

According to Johan Venter, one of South Africa’s most accomplished brandy masters, local brandy has a distinct flavour. “Due to the climate, our grapes develop more character and depth, which gives brandy producers a great canvas to create some of the best brandies in the world.” Drinks writer, judge and consultant Leah van Deventer says, “There’s no denying the incredible quality of South African brandy, particularly our flagship potstill Cape Brandy, which is consistently a high achiever in blind tastings around the world.” Kurt Schlechter, director of Cape Town’s Cause | Effect, says, “Brandy is a wonderful spirit with a range of flavours and depth; different grape varietals and barrel ageing can give you access to a large selection of flavours.” Johan adds, “The legislation in South Africa for brandy production is also the strictest internationally, with all brandies having been aged in small barrels (300 litres) for a minimum of three years. This ensures the quality and integrity of the spirit, which ultimately maintains the level of excellence in what is produced.”

So why the lack of local appreciation? “I don’t think a lot of South Africans are aware of the many awards our brandies collect on the world stage,” says Kurt. Johan adds that “South African producers have won ‘Best in the World’ many times over, yet the local market does not know brandy outside the ‘brandewyn en coke’ culture.” Leah agrees, saying, “I think this can largely be attributed to its historical associations, where it was commonly viewed as the white man’s tipple.”

 

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However, there is growing interest in local brandy, thanks to innovative bartenders. Kurt says, “Brandy in cocktails is gaining momentum, as well as an understanding we can match or better any imported cognac or brandy.” Both Johan and Leah credit the work of the South African Brandy Foundation with promoting the category. “They have an invaluable partnership with BLACC, the non-profit Black Cellar Club, which is making great strides in bridging the gap between the previously disadvantaged majority of South African society and wine-and-brandy stakeholders,” says Leah. She also recognises the work Kurt does through his bars. “Kurt has dedicated brandy bars in his award-winning Cause | Effect group and works closely with a number of local producers to showcase and champion South African brandy,” she adds.

So, with this growing interest, perhaps it won’t be long before locals start to appreciate brandy. “There are many new brandies being produced and the quality of our 100% potstill and vintage brandy is being pushed by local producers,” says Kurt. He suggests that South Africans “should drink neat brandy or brandy in cocktails to understand the wonderful flavour profiles on offer”, forgoing the classic mixed serving style, to truly appreciate its complexity.

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