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Review: Sushi and sustainable seafood at Lobster Trap in Bryanston

Food

This is the kind of place to pop in at for high-quality sushi; the rice is loose and superbly prepared. The menu provides a range of sushi options, from salmon roses and wasabi parcels to futo maki and ikura nigiri, also available as part of a selection of affordable platters. The starters are fairly eclectic in inspiration, ranging from polenta e parmigiano and bresaola e fragile to marinated white anchovies with lettuce, celery, tomatoes and a lime-chilli dressing. Hot starters include fresh gnocchi, Chilean smoked salmon with spinach, goat’s cheese in a baked phyllo parcel, and crispy coconut prawns.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

For mains, one could opt for a few curries and house specialities, a selection of simply prepared seafood items such as crayfish, langoustines, Mozambique prawns, farmed king prawns, or a lovely platter of tempura prawns. For larger groups, there are various platters and combos available, so anyone should be able to find something great to eat on this unique, hands-on menu. For those not keen on fish, the options include a ladies’ sirloin, prime rib or vegetarian pasta. Under the dessert options expect the usual suspects as well as a cheese platter, which they hope to expand upon with the installation of a cheese room in future.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

In a time when sustainability of fish is such a contentious aspect of dining out, it’s refreshing to eat at a restaurant where the owner takes personal responsibility for the selection. Most fish are categorised as ‘select-line’, meaning that they were caught between 40 and 60 nautical miles off the KZN coast and have been inspected by the Natal Parks Board; even the oysters are wild KZN coast oysters. But despite its exacting standards, this establishment also has to listen to its customers, meaning that they do not stock too many unfamiliar types of fish, since customers rarely opt for those. Even sushi made with white fish is rarely ordered – it seems South Africans want salmon and nothing more.

Drinks

Although there is no printed wine list here, it does not mean this establishment does not take their wine seriously. The available wines change regularly and are displayed on wrap-around shelves for intimate perusal; any questions regarding the wines are expertly answered by the staff. Expect boutique wines at very affordable prices, such as Haystack Chardonnay 2013 Journey’s End, Corder Cool Climate Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Spioenkop Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Mount Abora Koggelbos 2012, and De Meye Trutina 2011. There is a well-stocked bar offering some great cocktails such as an apple mojito, banana daiquiri, dirty martini and the signature ‘Lobster on Main’ with white rum, coconut rum, mango juice, orange juice, coconut milk and pineapple.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Service

Restaurant manager Memo Dube and his team do a formidable job to keep their customers informed and happy. This is not a big restaurant, but it can become rather vibey with the right crowd.

Ambience

Lobster Trap is a modern-looking restaurant, primarily in shades of white with blue strip lighting at night, which is most suitable for an all-fish restaurant. During the day there are large sliding doors leading onto a small balcony with a few small intimate tables overlooking the astonishing view onto the north of Johannesburg. Furniture is elegant and modern with cared-for coral and tropical fish tanks throwing beautiful moving shadows over the tables. There are also some serious oyster and crayfish tanks and a large sushi-bar section.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

And…

This establishment prides itself on using no marinades or bastings, so be prepared for good honest food where one can taste the natural goodness from the sea. When sardines are in season, this is where you’ll find them fresh, not frozen, and at the oyster bar you can have your oysters in various guises: au natural, in an oyster shot, Asian-style, Italiano, Rockefeller, Mornay, Scotch or deep-fried.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Lobster Trap. Photo courtesy of the restaurant.

Eat Out reviewers dine unannounced and anonymously and pay for their meals and drinks in full.

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