Hanlie van der Merwe

There’s something very old school and cool about this grillhouse. From the library-esque decor to the great wine selection, it feels like it’s a born and bred Stellies establishment, even though it’s actually part of a chain.

Food
The menu bursts with classics, meaning you’re flooded with warm and fuzzy food memories of the steakhouses of your childhood. For starters, the peri-peri chicken livers deliver the perfect hit of spice, although the moreish sauce could do with fresh bread instead of the croutes it’s served with. The oven-roasted marrow bones and steak tartare also catches the eye.

But, let’s face it, the main event is the meat. Choose your preferred cut (everything you’d expect, including fillet and sirloin on the bone), add some sides (chunky potato fries are recommended) and a sauce (yes, they have monkey gland). Or try one of the many house specialities, like the Hussar carpetbagger, fillet béarnaise or Madagascan pepper fillet. But who can resist the drama of a tender chateaubriand flambéed at your table? The quality of the meat is good and orders are cooked to your liking.

If you have room left for dessert, the options include old favourites like crème brûlée, chocolate fondant and malva pudding.

Drinks
The extensive wine list offers something for every taste and every price range, though not always both at the same time. As a bonus, they charge no corkage fees.

Service
Waiters are friendly, attentive and able to make solid wine recommendations.

Ambience
Expect a cosy, intimate space with zero pretence that’s filled with many locals and some visitors.

And…
In summer, ask to be seated in the small seating space outside and you’ll be able to enjoy the vibe of a shared courtyard.

(2018)

Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.