The long-awaited V&A Market on the Wharf opened this December in the old power station at the Waterfront. 

The market scene in Cape Town has grown in leaps and bounds since the Neighbourgoods boys opened up shop in 2006. Growing numbers of Capetonians – from the wayfarer-wearing Polaroid-camera-toting variety to families with young kids – have flocked to markets for grocery shopping, as well as a fun, informal alternative to restaurant dining.

In recent years some of the bigger malls have caught on. Both The Cape Quarter with their Village Market (complete with its very own Boston Breweries tasting room) and Cavendish Square, with its Triangle Square Market, have embraced the trend, drawing crowds with the promise of fresh, artisan produce, and a once-off, limited-edition experience.

The V&A Waterfront, however, the first to open up a permanent market. Located inside the Waterfront’s historic power station, adjacent to the Nobel Laureate Square, the market houses over fifty permanent stalls, and is open Wednesday to Sunday from 9.30am to 7.30pm. So how does it measure up to the city’s less structured markets?

The traders
A good mix of the old favourites and new faces. We’re devotees of the scrumptious empanadas made by Como Foods, and confess to a slight addiction to The Creamery’s peanut butter ice cream, so were particularly relieved to see these two traders open up their stalls. The Oyster Lady can be found in the upstairs area, shucking her famed oysters for fans.

There’s also plenty of international food: shwarmas and spinach pies from Costa the Greek; Taiwanese fare from Taste of Taiwan; Danish hotdogs and smorrebrod from Little Denmark… the list goes on. Taste Buddies offers veggie burgers for the vegetarians and Cape Malay deli offers halaal options. New traders Gourmet Samosas present something a little different, however. With flavours like spicy halloumi, slow-cooked lamb, and prawn and Himalayan rice in a saffron sauce, these guys are a little different from your corner shop’s triangular treats.

To drink
Origin and Deluxe coffee (both fabulous brews), a range of teas from Nigiro, and freshly squeezed juice from Dr Juice are supplemented by a bar area upstairs, with Devil's Peak First Light Golden Ale and Darling Brew beers on tap.

Game for something more unusual? Try out one of the novel beverages from The Bubble Tea Company. Based on a drink developed in Taiwan in the eighties, bubble tea consists of a base of oolong, green or Ceylon tea, with either a milky or fruity flavouring added, and a handful of chewy tapioca pearls (called ‘bobas’) bobbing at the bottom. Trying it for the first time? Give the super-sweet green tea, honey melon bubble tea with yoghurt-flavoured bobas a try. Bubble Tea is not to everyone’s taste, but it’s certainly unlike anything you’re likely to have tasted before.

Sweet tooth? Try one of the cone-shaped chimney cakes from Munch a Chimney. These traditional Transylvanian pastries are a little like doughnuts, only lighter. Served piping hot with cinnamon sugar, coconut, 100s & 1000s sprinkles, or pecan nuts, they make a delectable sweet treat. They do take a little while to bake, so order yours and come back after five minutes of browsing to collect. Other top picks include the apricot slices and the chocolate brownies from Royal Bavarian Bakery’s stall, and the lemony fudge from Sweet Dream Fudge.

To take home
Stocking the pantry? Head to Coniglio for some rabbit wors or burger patties, Stokkiesdraai for biltong, and find your organic veggies at the Bosini Brothers and Adam’s Apple stalls. We’re particularly impressed with Around Cheese, which showcases cheeses from small producers from the countryside, and The Mozzarella Well, where Puglia Cheese showcases its fine mozzarella. Lastly, stock up on inspiration at Books on the Wharf upstairs, where you’ll find plenty of local cookery books.

The space
The old cogs and pipes of the power station lend some ambience to a somewhat cavernous double-volume space. There’s plenty of room between the aisles – a good thing when the crowds descend. Seating is located outside in the square, and around the side that faces the docks and Table Mountain.

The extras
MasterChef SA runner-up Sue Ann Allen will be hosting demos at The Demo Kitchen for both kids and adults. Contact her on allensueann@gmail.com to make a booking. There’s also a drop-and-go service and a locker system for heavy shopping bags.

Parking
The closest garage is the Portswood garage, where you can park for four hours for R10.

The verdict
The air of permanence and long opening hours may remove some of that frenetic buzz of the Saturday morning market, but there’s some fabulous produce on offer all the same. We’re particularly happy to have a place to stop off for a gourmet snack while visiting the Waterfront. And, most importantly, this could well turn out to be a wonderful platform for some of our local small producers.

By Katharine Jacobs