Annelize Visser

Food

Everything about The Hussar Grill says steakhouse throwback – from sixties standards such as a carpetbagger steak, a prawn cocktail (served here without irony) and traditional steakhouse sides like creamed spinach and roasted butternut, to the macho décor – dark wood, white tablecloths, a boys’ own collection of vintage model cars.

If the prawn cocktail is just too retro for your taste, the starter menu kicks off with the Italian soup (the recipe hasn´t changed in 30 years); and if you can resist the Hussar biltong and the Hollandse bitterballen, scroll all the way down to the oven-roasted marrow bones. They’re so rich and delicious, you may need a short nap.

As well as the Hussar carpetbagger, which, in case you don’t remember the seventies, is filet mignon stuffed with oysters and cheddar cheese and topped with a brandy and mustard sauce, house specialities include blue cheese sirloin, chateaubriand and fillet béarnaise. Perfectly matured meat and skilled cooking do these grillroom classics proud.

On the dessert menu, steakhouse classics such as baked cheesecake and ice cream and chocolate sauce get stiff competition from a sweet and sticky malva pudding.

Drinks

The award-winning wine list likewise takes no risks. Platter’s Wine Guide ratings have been added throughout, and you’re unlikely to run into a label you don’t recognise. The selection is nevertheless extensive and the prices reasonable enough to not be tempted by the no-corkage-ever invitation to bring your own.

Service

Service is courtesy of accomplished career waiters – gracious hosts who laugh at your jokes, possibly because they’ve heard them before.

Ambience

Ultimately, it’s the service that imparts a certain elegance to your Hussar Grill experience. The sense that everything is going to be just fine (and it will be) makes it equally suitable for a midweek romance as for the kids to show off their best manners.

Best for…

A relaxed night out when you want a reliably good meal with a side of polish.

(August 2019)

Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.