There was a time when comparing La Tête to the famed St John in London was a compliment – that time is no longer. A bona fide purist and devoted ‘nose-to-tail’ chef, Giles Edwards is cooking the type of food that’s success squarely rests on a deep understanding of his ingredients. The ever-changing menu ennobles seasonal vegetables and rare cuts of meat. Giles has a knack for delicately teasing out the fairest of flavour profiles from even the humblest of ingredients.
The menu changes daily, but some stellar stalwarts remain – such as the mussels, leeks and bacon starter, and the main portion of perfectly roasted quail with aioli – and not a single soul is complaining. That said, try not to order the old favourites each time you visit, because plenty sumptuous surprises await those gutsy enough to try sweetbreads, chicken hearts, ox heart and lamb brain.
No one comes to the mecca of madeleines and leaves without ordering a dozen or two of these irresistible baked scoops of Parisian heaven. Though it bears noting that the rest of the desserts – comprising baked tarts, floating islands and the like – are equally scrumptious.
Not unlike the space’s décor, the wine list is sharply edited (by co-owner and chef Giles’ brother, James) and includes a selection of mostly boutique wines. There’s a good selection of wines available by the glass, as well as some craft spirits if you fancy a lunchtime cocktail.
Charming. Personal and enthusiastic, without being overly familiar. You’ll feel at home and in good hands, easing you into make brave choices with your order placement.
With bold flavours and gregarious service, the restaurant is left purposefully pared down. The space’s blankness almost acts as a metaphor, prompting diners to come with an open mind, ready to have their perceptions altered.
Food enthusiasts with curiosity about sustainable eating.
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