Lynda Ingham-Brown

Food
Chef Bertus Basson is known for his South African take on fine dining, in which he showcases traditional flavours through sophisticated, yet accessible, dishes. Diners can opt for either a seasonal four- or six-course menu with optional wine pairing at an extra charge.

Start off with Chrisna’s olives, produced in nearby Paarl, which reflect the chef’s longstanding commitment to using locally sourced produce. The bread course that follows offers house-made garlic-and-rosemary focaccia with whipped beef fat, springbok croquettes with aïoli and smoked aubergine, among other temptations.

For starters, expect the likes of raw gurnard with avocado, lime, radishes, tomato, coriander and cream cheese, topped with popped sorghum for crunch. Or go for a meatier option such as beef terrine with sweet mustard and beetroot cooked in beef fat. Second courses include ravioli filled with an egg yolk and cottage cheese, served with deliciously fresh and bright green asparagus and broad beans, topped with parmesan croutons; or rietskaap (lamb) with tomato, baby marrow and basil.

Mains offer umami-packed dry-aged sirloin with miso-and-caramelised onion purée and a trio of earthy mushrooms: sautéed, raw, shaved and a mushroom dust, plus a side serving of creamy mielie pap topped with parmesan. Other choices include brown-butter roasted yellowtail with a perfectly crispy skin, served with golden brown gnocchi, soft turnips and spring onion.

Desserts offer equally difficult decisions – it’s best to order one of each. The offering may include a seasonal Somerbosch strawberry-and-white chocolate mousse served with thinly sliced strawberries macerated in rum, a strawberry-and-lime sorbet, meringues, and strawberry purée dusted in coconut snow. The decadent pecan-nut soufflé lives up to all expectations and is doused in a brandy caramel at the table and crowned with a scoop of brown-butter ice cream.

Drinks
Go for the optional wine pairing to experience the chef’s suggested wines for each course, some of which are sourced from the Hidden Valley estate on which the restaurant is located, with others coming from the surrounding area. Alternatively, opt for a bottle or glass from the compact list, which offers some unusual finds.

Service
Professional yet friendly, and willing to accommodate special requests.

Ambience
Warm wood and modern metal create a sophisticated feel, while sweeping views of the valley and gardens draw the eye outside.

Best for…
A special leisurely lunch or dinner.

(August 2019)

Eat Out critics dine unannounced and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.