Linda Scarborough

Food

The concept of Thali, a platter of small bowls and bites of humble street food, is turned on its head at this mini-getaway of a restaurant. A meal at Thali is like a fever dream of the best kind, where each bite is more delicious than the last, and the bowls keep on coming. It’s a mercy not having to order anything – aside from whether you want to go for the usual tapas-for-two menu of the day, or the vegan or vegetarian options – because how could you decide? Deep-fried Kashimir cauliflower bites (that will have you raising your hands to the ceiling in ecstasy), tangy amber-hued khatti dhal, lamb kebabs and aloo dum make a thrilling beginning, with rotis, chilli relish, raita and pickles for you to tear, wrap and dab.

The beautifully plated middle courses of chilli aubergine with labneh and coriander gremolata, line fish sashimi or potato-and-corn chaat with sour-onion purée provide contrast. You'll be reminded of the small plates at owner Liam Tomlin’s Chefs Warehouse eateries that fuse elements from different cuisines so well, all oh-so-pretty and masterfully balanced in flavour and texture.

Splendidly flavoursome spiced rice in a copper bowl, tomato sambal and ode-worthy naan accompany the final dishes of deeply rich ghee roast chicken, silky palak paneer with mushrooms or lamb-and-tomato bredie.

To end, a shot glass of sweet, spiced ice – topped with a sprinkling of pomegranate jewels – is a perfect send-off.

Drinks

There's an expertly chosen wine list to match the food (mild, medium or hot), plus some of the chef’s favourites. But first prize is a kicky cocktail, like the cooling kiwi, green tea mojito or the warming Old Fashioned with star anise, cumin and cardamom.

Service

Welcoming, accommodating and knowledgeable.

Ambience

The dark space, compelling open kitchen (from which you’ll hear the chefs’ banter) and old wooden cooking implements on the walls make it a great space for dates, with enough talking points to keep the conversation rolling, if you have time and space between the
joyous mouthfuls. The outside courtyard, with sprawling jasmine and bougainvillea, is utterly charming.

Best for...

Decadent dates or groups who are happy to share.

(August 2019)

Eat Out reviewers dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. Read our full editorial policy here.